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That's a shrinkage crack not a foundation movement crack.

You can leave them in place, but there are rules for their internal location - eg internal supply pipes for gas meters should be metal, not plastic and the meter needs to be ventilated, and electric meters and cut out can't be in wet rooms. Contact your DNO and gas transporter...

OK I've seen this once before and the only logical explanation would be a cement board of some sort under the shower area to deal with any minor drips of water to stop the plasterboard getting soaked and damaged. I don't know when this was a thing, so it's either at the time when asbestos board...

What's the situation at the spotlight recess? Is there sign of the boards there, has it been cut already? ie does it look like the suspected board covers the whole ceiling or just that one location?

If the OP owns the freehold (owns the building), he is not a leaseholder (does not own the building). He may own the building jointly with others, as joint freeholders under a collective enfranchisement arrangement, and be responsible jointly, or partly, for its management. Non of this is a lease.

You can't be both. You can be a leaseholder and a landlord by sub-letting to your tenants, but there is still the first landlord who you are leasing off!

Because a client is paying them a fee. A contract exists, and it's only fair and reasonable to expect the inspector to perform his duties under that contract - ie to check that the work complies. Further, it is reasonable to expect that the same level of skill and reasonableness would apply...

That's not a standard location for any asbestos board How old is the property. What kind of property is it? Ex-council? Too late now, but suspected asbestos should never be vacuumed with a domestic vacuum

You should check your lease and speak with your landlord. A floor structure would typically be a landlord responsibility, and you should not attempt any work on it - that could have significant implications for you. You should further consult with your solicitor to check if this issue should...

The evenness and verticality of the cracking implies thermal contraction (shrinkage) of the plaster - from heating and humidity patterns. and common. Chop out some plaster about halfway up the cracking to check the wall behind - 100mm wide x 300mm high section. Tap the wall in various places...

Context?

Lots of people think drawing an extension is just a matter of a few lines attached to a larger rectangle and add a window and door here and there. It's actually a bit more than that and involves design - thinking about what's possible, practical and how it will be built. It's no good saving...

Parquet always reminds me of school assembly - sitting cross legged on the cold, hard hall floor, hoping not to be called up to the front for public scolding from some minor transgression. Be gone with it.

The upstand is set in to the joint, so whilst a drip is preferably, lack of a drip won't be causing water to penetrate the wall

It would be more useful to have an image from a few metres away showing the whole area particularly the areas above the internal damp. Mark the locations of the damp on the image

Dampen the area with water or brush or a thick pva mix, then if you can, lever the sheet with a wide chisel or lever. If the nail comes up, pull that out first. If the board fractures, spray or coat the edges

I'm personally not suggesting it, but the standards and the whole science community do assert that warm air holds more moisture, and there is risk in that fact. But for clarity ...

Any connection needs to be designed by the SE, not just yolo'd by the builder. An SE won't be able to certify a welded connection. A 178 beam wont have much tolerance for point loading, so no builder could possibly guess on it's suitability without working out the loading and layout

The surface texture indicates a pressed board, and if it is from the 70's then it is likely to be AIB

Is that a bathroom? Are you sure it's not condensation related?