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As property owners, with shared apportioned costs, what you should be doing is having the work independently inspected and specified by someone who won't benefit from any work they might recommend, and then get quotes on what work you specify - not various dissimilar quotes on what work various...

Was that engineer designed? A bottom flange should not be loaded like that.

Your fundamental problem is that you need a roofer who has a clue, and knows how to investigate. Looks like you need the top abutment opened up to check the flashing, and abutment detail. You should also have the wall above and frame sealant checked to ensure that nothing is getting behind the...

If the roof is bowing and ponding, that's an issue with the structure, and just coating it with anything won't rectify the ponding. That said, ponding itself if not a problem and not a cause of leaking if the covering is sound. So beware of being advised to recover the roof to cure ponding...

I wouldn't bother.

Does it need a new roof? Or repair? New liquid coatings can be applied over some firm stable existing coverings, but not over any old crap. A 10 year warranty is useless unless it's insurance backed. He can give you a 1000 year warranty and then go bust or change the company name after he's...

The detailing is around the perimeter and roof window, which are the common areas for water penetration. If the leaking is at edge and because of no soakers, then that's your problem and the roofers should have told you that and quoted for that - not quoted for extra unrelated work to correct...

If someone is quoting for this type of work without scaffolding, you should give them a wide berth. 2 blokes, 2 days max would be more like it. A day is 8:00 to 4:00, not 9:00 to 1:00

The installers should be offering a system for the panels they fit. Normally £500-£600 extra for a typical 3 bed. Stainless steel would be preferable. Otherwise, the guards chosen should last as long as the panels, and be wary of galvanised as these can rust when they are cut or worn from...

I suspect the problem is that none of the tiles are actually flat, not the pitch. The membrane would normally be a second line of defence against water penetration, so if the roof is leaking you may want to check the detailing at edges and upstands too.

See PAS 2035:2023 Annex C, regarding any improvement to the building fabric and ventilation assessments. And the 'Whole House' principle and moisture risk as defined by BS 5250:2021, which identifies that restricted air exchange in highly insulated environments leads to elevated relative...

You'll need to check the wall for bowing and the roof for sagging. Also the type and size of the cracking externally can be a good indication of the movement and possible cause

The issues appear to be with the finishes and not the frames. New windows won't solve this

What the view from the outside? If that is caused by roof spread, then it will tend to be on-going

Venting through a flat roof would be the highest risk and least preferred option. Are there other possible options for siting the fan and running the duct? There will be costs involved in working at high level and messing about with ducting and vents, so you will be charged a premium for that...

At the lowest speed possible to do what you need it to do

Drop the existing guttering to the bottom of the fascia. Run new gutter on the shed and return it along that brick garage and connect it to the existing gutter. Fit a roof sheet just below the garage roof, falling towards the shed. Water will run down it, on to the shed and then back under it...

Be aware that the bitumen adhesive commonly used for old parquet tends to contain asbestos fibre. This will be a relatively small amount of the least hazardous type and can be managed with simple precautions - you won't need specialist firms nor its complete removal, but all the same care should...

Vinegar is not an accurate test. Lime plasticiser or natural carbonates in the mix can cause it to fiz. If you need to know for sure it should be laboratory tested. Generally, a grey shade would tend to indicate cement, as would a finer, denser grain appearance and it being harder and pieces...

Unless you are having this designed properly to meet a specific target u-value, then you are reliant on an ad-hoc method and won't know if 20/40/50 or 70mm of insulation is either required or worth it in terms of cost/payback and comfort. Its a balance between cost, effort/disruption (including...