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When you say that the big CH flow pipe from the boiler got hot when you used the hot tap, where were you touching it? About a foot away from the boiler? It does indeed sound like the diverter: it does two things... 1) detects the hot tap being opened 2) controls the CH water to heat the hot...

My RSF84 is similar. I have to leave the DHW temperature control potentiometer at approximately 1pm. Any higher, and the boiler will overheat and cut-out. There are some other posters on this forum with Ravenheat boilers and the same scenario - the consensus seems to be to leave the control...

I've got an earlier boiler (Ravenheat RSF84ET), which has a very similar heat exchanger design. I agree with your gas engineer. Ravenheat are correct in that the CH water should not ever mix with the tap hot water, but they are coiled together in the heat exchanger. When you switch on a...

When you open your hot tap, does the microswitch in the boiler click, and the boiler fire-up? Does the water get hot? Does the boiler start to switch off and on, resulting in water going hot/cold/hot/cold/...?

Hi all, My combi CH/DHW has been working OK, but has recently started making strange noises. A few minutes after you turn the heating on, you can hear the sound of tapping and dripping in the pipework. It's particularly bad on the main bedroom radiator, the small bedroom radiator, and the...

If your CH is cold, and switching on a hot tap causes the CH to warm, then yes, your DV is passing. The boiler is trying to heat the HW and CH, which is doesn't have the capacity to achieve! For what it's worth, I experienced this exact situation with mine. The diaphragm failed on the DV...

I had a similar problem with my Ravenheat 84 (99% the same as your 100). I replaced the entire diverter with a generic cheapo one from BES/Banico, as the HW pin was not activating reliably. The new one activated perfectly, but decided to pass to the CH when the HW was in use. I suspect...

I had a similar problem with a similar boiler. It turned out that the DHW thermistor was not connected to the PCB - somewhere in-between there was a break in the cable, and/or a poor connection. If you turn the DHW potentiometer (the control you referred to) up and down, you should see the...

Personally, I'd forget about it. In the unlikely event that the purchaser's solicitor asks you about the boiler, simply state that you cannot remember when it was installed or last serviced. Point out that THEY are more than welcome to come round and test the hot water and heating...

I know I pointed out the BES valves earlier (due to the low price), but I've just noticed this thread: http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=82850. Perhaps they are not so good after all?! Another reference I've found is http://www.ezypart.co.uk/parts/part_id__2024 which claims to be...

BES Ltd. sell diverter valves and associated items for much less: http://www.bes.ltd.uk/products/114.asp I've not seen them for sale anywhere else at this price.

Hi all, I'm posting a new thread about this as I've tried quite a few things recently, and the old one was getting a touch cluttered. Anyway, I've got a Ravenheat RSF84ET combi boiler which is getting too hot and so cutting out (after 20 seconds or so, it cools, so re-fires, and the cycle...

Also, the manual claims there to be two fuses: two on the control PCB, and one in the gas valve PCB. After lots of searching, I started to suspect that only the SIT gas valve PCB has this fuse, and my Honeywell does not. Guess I've blown up the control PCB. :( Slugbaby: I tried to give...

There are two fuses on the main PCB (right-hand side) but they both check out OK. Within reason, an incorrect wiring connection really shouldn't kill anything - so say my electronic engineer colleagues.

DISASTER! I couldn't cope with not knowing, so I ordered a new pot set. After fitting them, the hot/cold cycling problem seemed much worse, even if I backed off the HW pot setting! I decided to put the original pots back in, and just accept that it didn't make sense. Unfortunately, I...

I've just tested the clip-ons with a multimeter, and I'm getting similar resistance values. And I was quite amazed how quickly it responded when moved to a chilly wondow-cill! :) The sensors in the boiler also seem to have logical readings - the wet and dry ones are the same value. Perhaps I...

Hmm! I wanted to try that, but the leads have different mouldings on the end to connect to the PCB. I didn't want to start chopping and choc-blocking the wires, so left them alone. Or are you suggesting the leads will come off from the potentiometer end? I didn't think they would (without...

Hi Gareth, Yes, that's exactly where I am! It's working really well with the dial set to JUST before the black blob at the 1 o'clock position. If I move it to ON the 1 o'clock position, it will return to the nasty cut-out behaviour. According to the manual, I should be able to adjust the...

Interesting! Ravenheat told me that the wet ones were obsolete, and since 2005 they have recommended the dry ones. I didn't use any thermal paste, as the copper piping seems to transfer heat amazingly well and the clips are tight. I'll see if I can get hold of some and give it a quick go.

OK, thanks for the confirmation. I've been experimenting with the HW temperature control on the front of the boiler (instead of leaving at max). It's now at the 12:30 position, about half way between the tap and the dot. Running the hot water is now much better - it doesn't cut out...