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Try replacing the two 0.01uF 275V X2 rated capacitors in the brush-carrier. There's one connected to each brush to deck. That com could do with a good clean up, its a little worn--but seen a lot worse....

Just measured the water-levels with a ruler. Std wash cycle, 60 degrees, -- 1" depth. Std wash cycle, with water + --2" depth Quick-wash 40, --2" depth.--Same with water + The rim of the inner drum is 3.6" to the bottom of the rotating inner drum. Door-seal is approx level with the inner...

Warranty --On a 10 year old machine!--Thats a good one! Haha.... Overboil?--Why would it overboil??--Thermostat/temp control/water-heating still unaffected by water-level,--different control-system. Melt the drum--Cause a fire??? --With a Stainless drum, And outer Tub--That would be summit to...

Ive thought out how to make this setting Adjustable pretty easily. Instead of a section of pipe added--How about adding into that sensor's pipe a 'Tee' piece and joining this to a syringe, say--2-5mL one.. --Syringe plunger position will govern the extra volume of air added to the pipe and...

Ive been thinking about this..... I'm sure you Can! The arrangement's like this. The pressure-sensor is connected to the drum by a specific length and diameter pipe. With no water--the pipe is open to the air, at some level near/at the bottom of the drum. As water fills the pipe at the drum...

Seems these days, these newer washers don't wash well because the amount of water they take in is just so little. The little water also seems to contribute to the drum-spiders rotting out, as the middle part (Where they fail) never gets flushed out properly during a rinse stage.... Most it...

Ive now dismantled the brush-frame of the old motor--again. In there there's two small 0.01uF 275V X Rated capacitors. One is completely open circuit, other tests fine...... Its the cap thats connected to the shorter of the two brushes, from there to the frame of the motor..... --Interference...

Got hold of the replacement S/H motor. For good measure--I stripped and cleaned it, added a tiny bit of oil to its bearings through a hypodermic and cleaned the com and its undercuts. Reassembled with new brushes--although it didn't actually need them, I had got some anyway. I tested the motor...

Gas or electric??

From underneath..... Make sure there's no water in the machine--Drain via the filter in the front, then turn the machine on its (right hand) side, remove bottom plate and the motor is sat there on the bottom of the tub.... Brush-gear is part of the white plastic frame attached to the back end...

Door sensor as far as I know is a humidity sensor. How does the machine perform if you use a timed dry as opposed to a 'normal' (or sensed) dry?

Sounds to me like it may have poor air circulation from the condenser to heater back to drum.... Is the tiny belt from dryer motor to fan OK? You can run these machines --with the front cover panel open, door closed to front panel--See if there's a good flow of air from the heater into the...

If its like the WT945, the controller is mounted at the bottom of the outer skin/front panel. Theres a clip on the bottom edge that you feel for along the bottom edge of front panel, and push this upwards, the case of the board will then move slightly and with a wiggle will come free.... Motor...

Ah--I have a similar issue. Goodmans box and a 1968 ITT CVC2 colour set. The Remote for the Box Only Controls the SCART sound output level, and Not the RF sound output level. Either use the remote for the TV for the sound or if that set has SCART connect via that and all should be well...

Any arial/antenna/dish installation Co will be able to supply a suitable replacement

Sure the O/P realises that signals don't come Out of sockets marked 'IN or Input' !!

The CRT is down to air, by the sounds of it.... See if you can confirm that the arc is Inside the glass of the tube when you try it running with the rear cover off. I doubt you'll find a replacement CRT easily these days, best bet would be to find its part-number and find a similar (More...

You can try lining the door and also covering in egg-boxes/trays to absorb the sound a little. Try some draught-excluders around the door to effectively seal it too. Only issue then is--ventilation, it could cause the machine to overheat...

A little progress.... The IGBT didnt arrive till after the weekend. So on Saturday, I checked my stock of stuff (For Flat-Screen/Plasma TV sets) and found a suitably rated IGBT. Original is a 20A 600V (13N60) device and I had a 40A 630V device. (63F4A) Shoved that in. No different at all...

LM315..... Thats an oddball, Sure its not a LM317...?