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In the US, I've seen electric sealant guns, that help you keep a steady pressure (and therefore flow) of gunk.. At first I thought it was another part of the American quest to remove all manual effort from like (eg electric can openers) but then after fubbing a few silicone beads, I realised...

It sounds like you have one of these : http://www.screwfix.com/sfd/i/cat/18/p1085418_l.jpg That has a male 1/2" BSP on one end. That will fit onto one of these : http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id=11663&ts=05206 A wall plate elbow, which has female 1/2" BSP, a 15mm compression...

Here's a few things that worked for me : - bolster chisel and a 2lb club hammer. - Heat gun. Yup, heating the adhesive should weaken it. - SDS Hammer, with roto-stop, and a spade bit. Be careful. Those things have the power of a vengeful god - point them at something, and PFRRRRRT -...

Depending on what you need it for, Wedi board might work... they make a 20mm - Wedi.co.uk Hope this helps

I also had a lot of problems finding good low pressure taps and shower valves - but after a lot of research I settled on a Hudson Reed Tec Pura Plus - it's a thermostatic, concealed shower/bath control. It has 3/4" inlets - so it will give you plenty of flow, even off a gravity-fed system. You...

I've planning exactly the same - wall-mounted basin onto blockwork, which I don't want to chase out. I'm using 500mm flexi tap tails which will fit straight onto the copper at the wall, sheathing the existing 32mm plastic waster pipe with a 40mm chrome pipe, and joining onto the new chromed...

From experience, trying to bodge it ends up looking bodged - the tiles won't be flush, and even the slightest difference will catch the light differently and stand out. Best to skim it with one coat, using a straight edge to level it off. Worth the effort in the long run.

..was I hoping you'd say that ! I'm fairly confident Weber are being cautious - after all they don't want comebacks on their products - so they'll recommend the absolute best drying time... I've decided to make my life easier and hack out the gypsum from one wall (a corner wall covering one of...

I have to reskim the bathroom and replaster a few patches where the old gypsum has blown. Weber SBD recommend 4 weeks drying time... How long would people recommend in the real world ? The gypsum is going on to breezeblock, in two patches, both 20mm deep - one patch is 1' x 3'., the other...

Am I undercaffeinated.. or am I missing something ? What do you want to cut a hole in ? The kitchen units ? Or the existing pipe ? If its the existing plastic pipe, a metal saw will work. Cut it back, and fit whatever pushfit adapter you need to take the new waste. If you're talking about the...

Its certainly appreciated :) It's a bit of a pig... I can't drill into the back of the hole, because that second course of bricks is what separates me from the neighbours bedroom.. Foam is a good tip - once I've got the thing level. I'm thinking maybe some 2x4, cut down to the required...

Nice one. Spoke to Hep's tech people - the conduit for 22mm Hep is 30mm external diameter - that's a mother of a chase. So we reached exactly that conclusion - slap some ply over the hep at the bottom of the chase, dab of gripfill to anchor it to the wall, and plaster over that. For the...

I'd be chasing after the guarantee providers.. send a letter to their registered address - its legally binding. But I'd also want to understand *why* its shut. You don't mention if it's part of a conservatory, a replacement door etc. Was the old frame replaced too ? Its possible that it was...

You could try tile paint - its formulated to adhere to very smooth surfaces, so it might work. Of course, it may not be heat resistant. I would try it first by painting a tile, and leaving it next to the fire at the same distance as the surround - otherwise you might find your handywork...

.. what can I say ? I just want that clean, everything wall-hung and chased in look. And I'm too poor to pay someone to do it, so I'm doing everything (bar the plastering, which is cheap to pay for but expensive to fubb up). I'm hoping the conduit I ordered will fit over the Hep... otherwise I...

I need to bury some 22mm Hep in the wall, and I want to do it kosher - partly to stick to the regs, and partly to avoid thermal expansion blowing the plaster. I'm thinking 25mm corrugated electrical conduit - but I'm afraid the internal diameter may be too small. If I slit it, presumably it...

As others have suggested, you need to establish *what* you're drilling into. If you're fixing curtain rails, it stands to reason that you are drilling into an external wall, which generally (though there are some exceptions in modern buildings) will be solid as it is likely to be load bearing...

I'm replacing my shower valve, but the back of the cavity in the (two course brick) wall is uneven. The old 15mm pipework was holding the old Mira 8 in place. I'm running hep to the new valve, but now I need to put a board at the back of the cavity to hold the new valve. The cavity is about 1...

I want to top off the Geberit cistern I', installing with a stone sill - but the local stonemasons (West London) quoted me £ 70. All I want is a small stone sill - not the Taj Mahal ! My question is, if I find someone who will cut me the sill to the right size, can I use a standard router to...

Majestic (for my money) make the nicest-looking shower screens around, and I remember they had a three-sides enclosure. Very sleek and minimalist looking (frameless), but not cheap. http://www.majesticshowers.com/ But their website seems to be fubbed at the moment. Slightly cheaper, but...