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Thanks Andrew. I called V, and got the Spanish(?) guy I think I remember from decades ago. Both share the same control options. I wasn't keen on the mandatory flush out of the Al heat exchangers at 5 years. 836 or 840,. looks about right. Only reservation, is that it's an old system. The...

I said 3 zone (+) just because that's a highlit feature of the SensoHome system when you look it up. I don't think I need multi zones. I don't have any info on how much having cooler unused rooms, saves. Yes the boilers part of the website was down when I looked! The outside-sensor-only was...

Thank you Andrew. I know what you mean about an unvented, but a combi will do for us two, and we'd get the cupboard back! I see Sensocomfort uses outside compensation - outside sensor, hmm, I remember when they arrived. I was never convinced about that. Load comp, sure that makes a lot more...

A picture ...... You can usually replace the whole flush pipe with 32mm. You can use 45's, slow elbows, knuckle elbows street (M & F) elbows etc. You can use a flexy waste pipe if you want.

Cold drips - It didn't occur to me for a while! By the look of it you unscrew the old one and screw in the new one. The instructions will be online. Maybe get a mate to look at it with you - two heads, and all that. Over to you though!

I have re-read. we need a photo! It sounds like you have an S trap if the china goes into the floor. In that case your problem is likely to be the opposite of what I and @Stuckinarut thought, and you may need something like a McAlpine WC-CONQ or a WC-CONQP. This is the P version. More likely...

It sounds like the diverter cartridge letting by https://www.showerspares.com/search/aqualisa-midas-220s-diverter-cartridge-910542 Look at showerdoc, etc etc, for pictures of the kits, and prices or you can buy from Aqualisa. At drip rate, it would take ages for the fixed head to fill with...

Many of them. Google is your friend. Try McAlpine, though there are others. There are many lengths of horizontal part before the turn down. There is a cut-to fit extension if you need it, which I doubt. The flush pipe is probably close enough to 32mm that you could make a pipe to fit

We've decided to get a combi in place of the old stored-water system. I'm interested in longevity and maintainability though I'm not looking for the 43 years the old boiler and pump lasted. (one thermostat, one FFD, one Ignition module went. I have spares of all of them, but now's its time) A...

Not unless your water is extremely hard, which doesn't apply in many places. If you take the secondary heat exchanger out , it will tell you a lot. If the primary side is limescaled, which is unusual, that could reduce flow. If the secondary side is clogged with black magnetite sludge, that...

Thankfully some were able to read the words and make relevant suggestions. As said, there are no radiators involved here. When i get the acute blockage problem sorted I can think about flushing the entire system which as i explained in the other thread isn't too bad according to the FLIR. To...

Thank you John D but I know all that, it appears you didn't read the question. Chris JP I appreciate you wish to contribute but you demonstrate that your knowledge of chemistry is lacking and that of and plumbing & heating is not experiential. Good luck trying to dissolve copper/brass in just...

Thanks DP, but I only have a few pipes - the airing cupboard ones, and the boiler, to clear. The pipe configuration caused aeration of the water, and the sludge is bunging the pipes up where the junctions are. The rest of the system isn't too bad. I have a FLIR which shows up blocked...

I have some pipework and a cast iron boiler with a lot of flakes of magnetic sludge, magnetite I assume, blocking the pipes. This came to light as a result of "Difficult pump change", separate thread. This one is ONLY about the chemicals! I have an old flusher at the back of the garden shed...

I added it later! You made me think anyway, at which point I worked out the water level change problem which I'm not sure I thought about before. Yes as above with a 6m pump, if the boiler resistance is equal to the HW cyl resistance the vent would be 3m below the feed. The inlet to the pump...

That's what I said and that's why it's not permitted to have one, I shut it just recently to work on the pump and it seemed to be letting by so I turned it harder... Now I have a vertical pipe with a seized valve which is difficult to access, and a head of water above it. Oh well. I may drill...

The water supply shouldn't be closable, so it's contrary to the rules. It doesn't pump over, because the pressure where the feed & expansion pipe joins the loop is higher than where the vent joins. Do you agree?? However, I do have a problem of sludge in the pipes in the airing cupboard. It's...

I'm not sure what you're asking exactly. What? A valve in a feed to an open system is proscribed. Probably in the British Standard, in the same place where it's stated you have to have an overheat stat on a sealed system. Why? Both are anti-meltdown / overheat protections. What I don't remember...

Still cold. Every nut is a snag I hacksawed the pump nuts and removed some pipe to get the pump squeezed through the gap between the cylinder and wall. The whole area is full of magnetic sludge. The old pump had seized. The area I've drawn a red box round is so solid I can't even push a skinny...

Good thought, I'm KT3, NE Surrey. I'll be going for a combi in the summer I reckon. A friend has just had a dead-simple (OK, I know, it's relative) 20 yr old GW combi swapped for a new GW combi because GW said some parts may not be available. As simple as a boiler change gets really, £3400. He...