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Sorry to hear that eta. How did you build up the base in the end and how did you form the gradient? In addition to trowelling the floor did you back skim each tile?

I seem to spend a lot of time on my knees and definitely prefer the strap on type. I've had a few different styles over the years including the ones HERTS P&D has. They are really tough and have a clever articulated bit that keeps them in just the right place when you're on and off your knees...

Nice, hope it all goes well.

No problem Bilis, no need for anything else after the tanking, just tile straight onto it once it's dry.

If your concrete is not newly poured and is not showing any signs of movement then it is not necessary to lay Ditra or any uncoupling membrane, although it won't hurt. The important thing is to have a flat floor before starting, especially if you are using large tiles. I would imagine the floor...

I'd just do as burnerman says but also run a bead of silicone down the back of each leg. Once it's gone off the unit won't be going anywhere.

If it's the Mega Adhesive then it's really strong stuff. Use the adhesive along every joint too, just let it foam up and after about 15mins use a sharp scraper or chisel to cut the excess off the surface. The rectangular washers will be fine also.

What size are your floor tiles? If you use a 20mm u-notch or 12mm square notch trowel and back skim each tile you'll end up with about 4mm compressed adhesive under them anyway so you should be able to get rid of the extra 2-3mm when it comes to the border tiles.

When you say cement board do you mean Marmox, Jackoboard, Wedi etc or do you mean Hardibacker, No More Ply? If it's Hardibacker or No More Ply then both these manufacturers recommend tanking in wet areas. If it's the others then I would ensure all joints are taped using waterproof tape before...

You are still exceeding the safe limit for skimmed gypsum plaster. Primers will not increase the weight carrying capacity of the wall, your easiest option will be to overboard with a thin tile backer board. Don't forget that in addition to the 23.7kg weight of your tiles you will also have up to...

Don't worry about it, both are fine to use and personally I prefer Marmox. Make sure you use the correct washers when fixing to the walls/floor.

Here's my advice to help you along - 1. If your floor still has any flex when you walk across it then I'd take up the plywood and add noggings to strengthen. I know it will be a pain but it's best to do it now. Decoupling membranes are designed primarily to relieve lateral movement between the...

I've fitted a few Impey wet rooms using the waterguard membrane and from your pictures it looks like you've used all the tanking products correctly. Assuming there has been no damage when tiling I doubt very much that the tanking will be at fault. I'd be much more inclined to think that your...

Just board using normal plasterboard and tank the area around the bath. What size tiles are you using?

No, Impey waterguard performs as a decoupling membrane.

6-8mm trowel for subway tiles, depending on how good your surface is and which gives the best coverage. I try to work as cleanly as possible and always have a bucket of water with a couple of sponges in it along with a couple of cheap toothbrushes for cleaning adhesive from joints.

This is what I do too, never any problems.

What type of pelmet do you have under the wall units? Some styles sit proud of the edge of the unit and if this is the case you might be able to go right up to the end of the worktop with your tiles. If not then I'm with bennymultifinish, line the tiles up with the wall unit.

The important 870mm height to set your datum from is the one where your washer or any other free standing appliance is going. Remember to measure from the finished floor level.

Wrap some PTFE around the bath waste threads to give the trap something to bite onto. It's also important that your trap is kept straight and not being pulled down by the connected pipework otherwise your o-ring will not seal.