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I am currently fitting a bathroom which had a shower enclosure constructed the same as yours ie tray fitted tight up to studwork, boards onto tray and then tiles over this. All the waterproofing relied on a single bead of silicone at the joint with the tiles and the tray and this kept failing...

Sounds like a right faff, manufacturers should provide everything to safely fix the bath to the wall. But if the instructions tell you to fit a wooden batten of your choice to the underside of the bath, and then support this by fixing another wooden batten on the wall then I'm afraid that's what...

It makes you wonder how many more botched jobs they've done between them. At least you're problems have started sooner rather than later and it's not damaged any other parts of your house.

Fitter error. They should refit the whole enclosure, tray and all, and be very apologetic about it. Hope that's how it plays out for.you. Good luck.

Enclosures do have min and max tolerances to allow for out of plumb walls and for slight adjustments on the tray. It just looks to me like that enclosure is already set at it's min as the frame looks like it's fully inside the wall channels. I might be wrong and it may be that the frame can be...

Did you buy the tray and enclosure? It looks to me like the enclosure is too big for the tray.

That's a terrible job, the enclosure needs to be completely removed and cleaned of all the silicone before starting again. Manufacturers instructions should always be followed, not thrown away. Firstly the tray should be solid, level and unable to move at all. The joint with the tiles should be...

You're making it all far more complicated than it needs to be. Take the height of your bath panel and fit 3 lengths of timber horizontally around the wall at this height from the finished floor level. Sit the bath on these timbers and use plenty of silicone to bond and seal the bath edges to the...

Here you are britishboy7, they are very bright actually.

They'd illuminate the steps fine and probably a bit further, but the light thrown from them isnt strong enough to light up the garden. I'll get some photo's posted for you of these ones under the worktops.

I fitted a kitchen earlier this year and used 2x5m led strips as feature lighting on the underside of solid oak worktops. They were IP65 rated and cost about £16. Like most strips they can be shortened if needed.The drivers weren't included but they cost around £4 each. I soldered 12v wire to...

2 years ago I fixed 3 large shelves and a 42" telly to a paramount board wall in my lads bedroom using red gripit fixings, with nothing being fixed to any studs. All are still solid. Only downside is you are left with a few 18mm holes to fill if you take them down.

Sorry, pressed post before I'd finished.....your dirty dishes this way will stack up on the worktop above the dishwasher making it easier to load, not on the opposite side of the sink.

Corner unit, bin unit, sink unit, dishwasher. Also if youre right handed I'd change the orientation of the sink so that the drained is on the left as you'll as this is ergonomically better

You might have paramount wall boards instead of studwork which might explain why you're struggling to find the studs. Gripit fixings are the strongest ones I've used so far.

I'd want to play it safe and go for porcelain.

Ceramic tiles have a hard waterproof glaze but in general they absorb water which will obviously cause problems in winter when they start freezing and thawing. Porcelain tiles on the other hand are made from compressed clay and are much more dense and absorb hardly any water. Porcelain would be...

Or you could dot and dab and fix through the dabs, you'd get more space behind then. I'd use 12.5mm min board thickness if you did this though as that's what you need when dot and dabbing Marmox.

No problem, but like I say, I've not done it before. I'd use a notched trowel to give full adhesive coverage on the back of the boards and then mechanically fix as well. You've got the added strength from the adhesive then. Someone else must have done this and will hopefully impart their wisdom.

I've not tiled a retaining wall but if I was going to my main concern would be the moisture and any chemicals from the soil reacting with the tile adhesive. I think I'd be tempted to fix a waterproof construction board, maybe 6mm or 10mm Marmox, to the wall using a C2S1 adhesive and then...