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Lovely job, well done.

The blades will come with a 20mm reducing ring which allows it to fit your saw.

If the PVC panels are the hollow chamber type then they will definitely deform when anything heavy is tightened against them. To prevent this I drill timber plugs the same thickness as the panels using a holesaw and place these plugs into corresponding holes in the wall. This stops the...

I would spend time removing the tiles and lino to get back to the concrete. However, if you are certain they are well and truly stuck and won't lift or you don't want to take them up then clean them thoroughly using a degreasing solution. Apply a grit primer such as Mapei Eco Prim Grip as this...

No, don't do it. Get yourself a nice big floor scraper, sharpen it up and remove them.

Coving may be a bit extreme to cover up such a small gap. There are plenty of UPVC quadrant trims about in various sizes which might cover up the gap without being too noticeable.

Thanks SFK, a much better explanation than my effort.

There are no rules regarding this, just do what you feel comfortable with.

Yes, that's true. It's just what I do and it saves all the fiddly profile cuts around the architrtaves. Your choice though.

If your flags are solid I'd be happy to tile over them. If your Hardibacker floor is higher than the flags I'd probably pour a levelling compound over them to flatten everything out and make tiling much easier. Prime before levelling compound and/or adhesive.

My norm is to undercut the architrave and door lining and slide the tiles underneath. It only needs to go under a little bit and looks much neater.

Any transition between concrete and wooden floors should have a movement joint incorporated into it and there should be no bridging of the joint during the subfloor build up. Your two floors will expand, contract and possibly move vertically independent of each other so if you bridge the joint...

If your tiles aren't perfectly square, exactly the same size or are slightly warped then a larger spacer will disguise the problems and allow you to keep to the layout.

Yes, a 2mm clip will give a 2mm grout line. Personally I use a smaller clip in conjunction with a larger spacer, then the clip is free to move when being knocked out the next day. I've heard of tight clips chipping thin glazes when being knocked out.

3mm is recommended min spacer size for floors but I often use 2mm. The smaller you go the flatter, squarer and generally better quality your tiles need to be. Personally I wouldn't go smaller than 2mm.

Not used it yet but it's supposed to be really good.

ATS do a Turbo-X blade which cuts porcelain tiles with ease https://www.atsdiamondtools.co.uk/product/turbo-x-diamond-porcelain-blade/ although I've just bought a blade off Amazon for £8.99 which looks almost identical. Use a steady hand and don't force the cuts. Make several passes as opposed...

They look like porcelain to me.

Buy a cheap angle grinder with a decent porcelain tile blade. That will be your best option as you will need it anyway to deal with the cuts around the doorway.

Yes, I meant go straight over if not happy after the first application. Grout shouldn't be used in any vertical corners, especially not in a wet area, so I'd just stick to silicone.