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I'd cancel the glass splashback and buy one that is 75cm tall.

Once you've removed all the tiles you'll have a better idea of the state of the floor. Lay a 6ft level across it in all directions and look for dips and high spots, ideally you want no more than about 3mm variation one way or the other. High spots will cause more problems than dips so grind...

I still think a 10mm 45° profile would look better than a 90° profile but why not give the 90° a go first, then go over it again with the 45° if you're not happy.

Sometimes there has to be a compromise with the layout. The good news is that being white tiles and white grout the colours will blend together better and the 'bad cuts won't be as noticeable. Also being brickbond it will only be every other row which is affected.

No worries, hope it all goes well. Don't grout your internal corners or the bottom where your tiles meet the tray. These are silicone joints. Good luck pal.

No, I meant just grout the walls and leave them to dry. The ceramic tiles will absorb water, the white glaze won't. The water from the grouting process has absorbed into the biscuit of the tile and is showing itself as a damp patch under the glaze around the edges of your tiles. Over the course...

What colour tiles are they, white? If they're ceramic they will absorb some water and this may be more noticeable with white tiles. Give the grout a couple of days to dry and the damp border might disappear.

It's the sides of the carcasses that are weightbearing, not the front edge, so as long as these are all level and flat against the underside of your worktop you should be ok.

If you're not used to grouting I'd just stick to one wall at a time. Try to work clean and squeegee as much grout off the surface of the tiles as possible after completely filling the joints. Metro tiles are trickier to squeegee than most due to the bevelled edges. It's all a matter of timing...

As above, grout as normal but be careful not to clean too soon where the chips are. If they still show however, colour mix some acrylic paint the same as the tiles and touch up the chips.

https://www.atsdiamondtools.co.uk/product/turbo-x-diamond-porcelain-blade/

I tend to just use https://www.atsdiamondtools.co.uk/ for most of my blades, holesaws etc. Their Turbo X diamond porcelain blade is excellent. I haven't found anything it won't cut yet. Some tiles are more susceptible to chipping than others though.

There's no reason why you can't.

Most paint on systems require 2 coats. Paint in opposite direction for each coat.

Hardibacker should be tanked if inside a wet area such as a shower. Paint on systems are fine for this.

Good effort, sometimes having mini disasters is the best way to learn. Get yourself a Fugi tool set for when you silicone.

They are useful for larger format tiles and really do help to avoid lippage. They will also pull warped tiles back straight and hold them while the adhesive sets, sometimes that's needed with the long floorboards type tiles otherwise you'll never avoid lippage. I buy shmox clips online (no...

:LOL:

Sorry bennymultifinish, I apologise.

That's correct. Use their Mega Adhesive and run a line across the top of each joists and along the tongue of the board and screw about every 300mm. I always pre drill and countersink holes. Have a look online at the installation instructions, it will explain it all.