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I get mine from local tile shop which stock no more ply. You can always get it online but obviously you'll pay for delivery.

Yes, you can with this. I always use it when fitting wet rooms and replace the existing floor with it. It's tongue and grooved and absolutely solid when fixed. Tiles can be laid directly to it.

Thanks bennymultifinish, that's helpful...... only epoxy grout is waterproof and impervious to water. All cement based grouts allow water to soak into them, why do you think the grout changes colour when it gets wet? How many swimming pools have you seen which have been lined with plasterboard...

If you haven't laid anything in there yet why not use 22mm No More Ply. No overboarding needed then and you could drive a tank over it.

First thing to sort out is the floor. Going over the OSB with chipboard would stiffen things up but really the chipboard needs to be screwed into the joists. The location of these should be easy enough to find by looking for the screws or nails in the OSB but if you are not going to lift the OSB...

What you currently have is a floating floor and this is the problem. Not many tilers would recommend tiling onto these. An uncoupling membrane won't really do anything to prevent the flexing of the floor when weight is applied to it. I'm guessing that your old tiles or the grout had cracked...

If you are being asked to do the job then it will be you who gets asked to come back if any problems develop in the future. Explain your concerns and say that it needs prepping properly for it to last. Any wooden floor will need overboarding before tiling but the very least you need is for the...

Like above - ants, we've had it just like that for years in our summer house.

Marmox and other construction boards have to be 10mm min when going over floorboards but this would give the best insulation under your UFH. You could use No More Ply or Hardibacker if height build up is critical but you would compromise the warm up time of the UFH. Whichever option you choose...

Bloody hell! You'll have arms like Popeye when you're done scrubbing them. I'd try cleaning using a white emulsifying pad first and you'll probably get through quite a few of them. It's going to be time consuming but scrubbing would be preferable to using a grout residue remover, just because I...

Grout allows water to soak through to the substrate so you really need to tank the plasterboard after priming anyway, whether it's moisture resistant or normal so it won't make that much of a difference. Weight limits for all unskimmed plasterboards are 32kg sqm which is plenty more than the...

I always prime everything before tiling. Acrylic tilers primer or SBR will be fine.

He might have forgotten or not bothered nailing the last short plank. Give it a kick with your trainers on and see if it moves. If it does kick it back open, put some wood glue in the joint and kick it shut.

Yes, I've fitted a few different ones. Sometimes just in shower enclosures and sometimes whole bathrooms.

Usually I'll set out by finding the centre line between the floor and ceiling and work up and down from there to see if everything looks ok. If not then I'll adjust up or down until I'm happy. It might be that a full tile off your floor works out well, but is your finished floor bang on level...

You'll be fine doing what you suggest, just tank the walls and onto the tray up to your masking tape. If the tray is solid no water will ever get through. I'd take the masking tape off though as soon as you paint the first layer of tanking and before it sets. Apply more masking tape before the...

I've used No More Ply for years now and never had a problem with it fixing this way. If there are instructions available always follow them, you know it makes sense:)

Just drill through the tile and screw straight into the plywood. Make hole slightly larger than screw diameter, use stainless steel screws and I always squeeze a small amount of clear silicone into hole before inserting screw.

Stagger the joints as per the No More Ply instructions, why risk otherwise?

You have less joints but one of them is a long one running parallel to your subfloor joints. If you're unlucky it could sit bang on top of one of the floorboard joints which creates one long potential weak point stretching through all layers. Probably wouldn't be an issue with laminate, vinyl...