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https://www.rocatex.co.uk/fixing/cementitious-adhesives/c2te-s2-ultimate-slow-flex-white Here's a slow set S2. I've never used it though so can't comment on what it's like.

Plenty of slow set adhesives around, not quite so many S2 slow set though. Your builders should really be sourcing and using an adhesive that is suitable and they are happy using. No real difference in performance with grey and white adhesive, white tends to be used with light coloured tiles...

Give it a good plunging, it's surprising how simple but effective it can be.

Use 5.0x80mm or 100mm screws and brown plugs. Drill holes to a min depth that will accept two plugs, knock first one in to the end of the hole using the screw, remove screw, put in second plug, screw on bracket being careful not to overtighten. Adhesive is something Ive never thought of but...

Brickbond or stacked is your choice.

Horizontal would be my choice.

1.5m x 4.0m is just about perfect for a 500x250 tile. Start in the corner of your tray and work away from it. The only spanner in the works is if you've got a window on either wall. If you have you might want to work from the centre point of the window and see how this works out. Vertical...

Older style downlights do tend to have a much narrower beam than modern equivalent LED downlights, especially when compared to integrated LED's. I always tend to use these from Screwfix: 7046T, they are fire rated, IP65, well made, easy push in connectors and have removeable bezels which come...

I'm not a chippie but fitted loads of skirtings. If you're planning on painting them 2 part isn't really necessary, just use a multi purpose filler like polyfilla or toupret, sanding is easy then.

Yes, it was great.

I've just repaired an oak door by filling holes like yours using that Ronseal 2 part filler. It's easy to mix and use (golf ball size amount of filler to a pea sized amount of hardener) and dries in about 20 mins when it's ready for sanding. Dries rock hard.

I'd probably opt for a 10mm square notch for that size tile, it all depends how flat your floor is. Flexible adhesive has to be used under Hardibacker as well as screws, No More Ply uses their Mega Adhesive as well as screws. The Mega Adhesive is also used to bond the edges of adjoining boards...

First thing is to make sure the floor is deflection free, if it feels like it flexes then you need to strengthen by adding noggings between the joists. Overboard the floor with construction boards such as Marmox, Jackoboard, STS, Q-board (min 10mm) or cement based tile backer board such as...

I think you know the answer to all your questions. Stop him now and find someone who knows what they are doing.

It's Good that you've noticed the out of plumb wall at this stage but I shouldn't worry about 5mm, that's easily made up with adhesive by using either a bigger notch trowel on your lower courses or by back buttering these tiles as you lay them. Shower enclosures or wet room screens nearly always...

Thanks bennymultifinish, I think I'll just ignore it for the time being.

Perfect, just check you are getting 100% coverage as you begin laying, it is important.

That self levelling compound is very good and the one I always tend to use but obviously this will try to level itself. You'd still have to form a gradient afterwards using your tile adhesive or by adjusting the bed thickness under each tile. Being outside you need a 100% coverage underneath the...

I wouldn't use MDF for any floor even if it is moisture resistant. If your tiles are over concrete I'd be looking to fix insulated construction boards such as Marmox on top of them. They come in various sizes and thicknesses and would be fine for tiling onto, whereas any type of wooden covering...

Hello everyone. Is there any way to fix this coping stone? After removing the railings would it be possible to stitch it back together or fill the split with resin and clamp it together prior to re-bedding? Or is there another way, or is it buggered?