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A slope is essential for your little porch to prevent standing water in there. I'd assume the porch is concrete underneath the existing tiles so once they are removed and it's cleaned up make sure you prime using an acrylic tilers primer or SBR. I'd then fix guides each side set at the right...

Its difficult to imagine what your lip is from your description. Have a look around or ask in the tile shop and they'll show you what they've got that might be suitable.

I've never tiled any balcony but I'd say no. The very least you need from any surface prior to tiling is for it not to move. There are tile pedestal systems around which might be interesting to look at but I doubt they'd work with your quarry tiles.

I used Sandtex masonary paint for the cement fibre board soffitts on my house. Been a couple of years now and still looks as good as when I did them.

I think steaming is only worth trying with acrylic adhesives although I've not tried it either. Your adhesive looks like cement based to me. I think you'll be really lucky to scrape it all off and leave the tiles underneath looking ok. Good luck though.

Dont ever use ready mixed adhesive for floor tiles. Cement based powder adhesives are what you want to use. Porcelain tiles are sometimes more difficult to achieve a bond with so make sure you use a deep enough notched trowel to get good coverage and always back skim every tile before laying.

The correct way to avoid future problems starts with a solid, flattish and deflection free subfloor. When you remove everything check that there is no bounce in the floor or else you will be back in the same position at some point. Strengthen floor with noggings if there is movement. Overboard...

This method is rock solid and an easy way to ensure your levels are correct. It all depends on how much making good you are willing to do afterwards.

Hello, if you mean studwork and not joists then any screw will do as long as they're of a sufficient length and are able to fit through the washer. I tend to just use Goldscrews for nearly everything, but plasterboard screws would be fine also. If your boards are 12.5mm then a 50mm long screw...

I would definitely suggest sealing the base of the toilet, you don't want water getting underneath it on a regular basis. Ideally you should remove the WC first to clean and dry before refitting and sealing the base.

Yes, sanitary silicone which has anti fungal properties.

In that respect I'm also ok as I'm married with 2 teenage children.

Begin by adding horizontal noggings top and bottom, either side of the middle stud which will form the top and bottom of your alcove shelf (remember to allow for depth of whatever you are overboarding with as well as the depth of your final covering matetial). Next add vertical studwork if...

Personally I always use flexible tile adhesive to bed trays. Can't really see any reason why plasterboard adhesive wouldn't work, after all the main purpose of bedding is to fill any voids and potential weak points underneath the tray. You'll definitely get a stronger bond than with sand and...

Boodiful

I wouldn't bother buying a self levelling compound in addition to adhesive. Shutter up the sides as you are planning to do and spread a layer of C1 or C2 adhesive (rapid, or standard set, whichever you prefer) and trowel flat. Once set use same adhesive to lay tiles. It is important to avoid any...

Hello, the gaps/cracks around the edge of the floor in your picture look ok to me for self levelling over. If you have gaps or cracks that are deeper or larger then fill first with expanding foam or silicone. This will prevent the liquid self levelling compound disappearing down these gaps. As...

Yes, bath panel clip

There's more to worry about than just the plastic trim I'm afraid. Grouting between the tiles looks like it's badly cracked suggesting movement. What is underneath the tiles?

Self levelling compound would probably be the safest way to deal with this. Whether you want to cover the lot or just the areas where the tiles are missing is up to you. Mapei ultraplan renovation screed is excellent and will fill 3mm to 40mm in one pour. Clean and prime floor before pouring.