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well that is a separate issue you need resolve, it only needs enough thickness of adhesive to take up any unevenness in the concrete. try and have a close look at the walls to look for a course that is a slightly different thickness to the ones above or below it, that might be it.

I have to join the end of the worktop to another worktop, so it involves messing with hard to get at ends where the clamps go, so the assembly sequence ends up being not straightforward, also I would need the room to put a couple of stands to rest the table on while I cut the rectangular bit...

I have the center bowls clear of the verticals, the only thing I still do not know is how much I have to baby it when moving it about after it has a hole in the worktop. We are letting the flat bit push over the next unit, still looks right for the space and it only descends about 15mm where...

Hi, that what I was thinking. put it as far forward as is safe for more back comfort later. Spare room at the back is always useful for sink gadgets etc

well it is a 720 mm front to back, so centre puts it quite far back and makes it a bit of a stretch for smaller family members if I do that, so wondering what the minimum recommended is, I don't want it creaking or breaking when I put it in place

I used composite beams under the bearer beam so that the bearer beam always gets a proper chance to dry out between rainstorms. They are a pain to cut with a jigsaw as they seem to contain aluminium pieces and they melt as you cut, but only a few cuts required anyway. It also left a bit more...

Those don't look like solar lights. Turn them on, then take out or turn off the fuses one by one until they go out, now you know which fuse allows power to them. Then you can either work yourself with the power off or get an electrician to do the job, but show him you know which fuse provides...

If the concrete is flat and stable, why not just use it?

As title, insetting a sink into a 38mm wooden worktop, 980x480 cutout, what is the minimum width I should have at front or back so that it is strong enough to manhandle into place?

Knotweed usually tries to go taller quicker than that, try rubbing the leaves, it does have the look of the mint family.

Well that is certainly a conifer root, so will have lots of resin coming out for quite a while. the weed and feed would be washed away by the rain too.

I was thinking it is a scraper, the edge is kept very sharp otherwise it does not work properly.

i used 5" of celotex for the conservatory, pushed up between the rafters on the inside, then plasterboarded and then painted over the double glazing where the infill was used. It helped, but still expensive to heat.

If it is solvent fit, then a repair would be quite easy to do, clean it down and stick on an offcut of pvc over the split or hole...

It needed a cap on the top of the uprights, and more rounded on the top to stop water pooling there, just make sure the replacement doesnt make those mistakes

The windows for log cabins need to allow growth and shrinkage of the logs through the seasons. they also need to be kept dry and painted properly. It looks to me as if the primer has lifted there on most of those bits, so cannot tell if it is untreated timber or badly prepared. Ours has similar...

You would be best to use an old toothbrush to keep the acid only on the slabs, not on the mortar, rinse straight after and the mortar stays good.

small holes are ok in iweb joist, look on manufacturers sites for exact limits to where and sizes. Must be worth a very carefully drilled hole there to have a closer look.

A deep infill of rubble will take a long time to fully settle, there will be air gaps scattered through it for many years, so allow for regular infill until it fully stabilises.

The bagging of waste wet is only really needed for linseed oil etc, grease is just a true soap and a heavy mineral oil mixed together.