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I'm not sure why one of the earths is held by a screw against the back box on the right, maybe whoever did this did it due to it not reaching the socket. It's not normal to have four cables connected in a socket but two might just be spurs to other sockets & the other two part of a ring or...

So if I'm reading this correctly you can install a normal back box that's 25mm deep (33mm) or chase out some plaster to use a deeper 35mm box? Bury it as long as it's in an obvious safe zone place it in metal conduit if it's not so it's mechanically protected, surface mounted trunking will look...

Looks like you have two switches in the kitchen, a feed in and a feed to the next lot of lights. Have you a volt stick to see which is the incoming feed (probably the "blue wire")?

Can you send a photo of the Switch wiring? You'll need a minimum of a T&E feeding your wall light from the switch

The Way that's been terminated looks a little poor, the Brown has too much copper on show, is that black terminated into the switch got damaged insulation? I don't know why the grey outer sheath hasn't been stripped back more so there's more room in the back box.

It will be accessible so something like this > https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CHOC30A.html As you'll have stranded and solid core

The lights don't look heavy though and the hook is secured well to the wall.

I would just plaster over the conduit & junction box and leave the "slit" so the wires are still accessible and it's hidden by the wall light. Looks a bit of a bodge but a good bodge & the fitting is earthed.

Yes I looked at all circuits with Limitation on all IR testing, one could at least lower to 250v and do some kind of test on some circuits. With regards to the sockets they should be able to be switched off and End to end resistances have been taken so not sure why no IR.

Could be a right pain in the arse to move it depending on how the cable comes up, might not reach without replacing one part of the ring - if it is a ring.

Maybe Quinetic could be the answer https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Quinetic/index.html

Get an LED Baton and as Pete says extend off the existing light it's an easy enough job. One thing I'd also do is staple some Silver Radiator Heat reflector foil near the top of the Rafters as this reflects light where you want it..

Not much a few things but I'm surprised you got an Electrician willing to "Pass" that in 2020. It's a flat by the looks of the title of the JPEG and the fact it only has 4 circuits. They're not labelled for starters the fuse cover is missing which should have those details but sockets should...

No, is there an RCD unit that protects the installation anywhere?

Yes speak to your neighbours and see if they actually have a vented extractor, you'd expect that in new builds these days! You might be able to see if other houses have vents.

Can you get some plaster board or plywood and cut a hole in it the size of the hole that's there? Place a piece of wooden batten across the inside with a few inches either side of the hole bridging it and fix this with a screw each side and then screw the circular piece of plaster board/plywood...

How did you work that out? A damp cloth was used to clean the fan.

I use a Hioki at work to test the battery impedance(s). If the batteries are over 7.5mohm we replace them as they can't always produce enough current for the UPS to run for very long.

Yes I think Wylex you have to toggle completely to the off position & re-energise.

What's happening with the box top left? It's a plaster board back box with nowhere to go? Personally I join conductors separately into wagos and tuck them out the way protected with some card board. The screw was no doubt touching a live conductor and now it has been removed the insulation...