Search results

We'll probably need one though I was hoping to just buy some software to draw up the plans. Think I know a bloke who lives round the corner though. Thanks for the replies. (y)

Hi, We're thinking of having a small porch built with planning permission. It's just over a meter from the Hedge boundary line, it's a semi detached. Our next door adjoining neighbour's house is set back/staggered so the porch will probably be 3 meters from their front wall. Anyone think this...

Yes, if you read my post I stated you need to use a deeper one the 51mm aren't suitable. I'm fully aware what KO stands for the Wiska's are threaded.

I'd also use a piranha nut to secure the SWA and link the Earths rather than a banjo & strap. A stuffing gland for the T&E I would also opt for a Wiska as it has knockouts making it very easy to use. A slightly deeper box helps get the SWA fixed too

Better to have a small holes drilled rather than notch the top of joists so the cable is less likely to be damaged by someone hammering a nail into a floorboard.

Is the floor wooden then? You Can make a spur off any socket for use outside as long as it has some kind of RCD or RCBO protection. I'm not certain what you mean with regards to the nearest socket do you mean it's behind the big Red blob you've marked on the wall? Or is that where you would...

An extra long multi tool blade could cut all the top adhesive & short one for grout - I know you can get them at least 60mm which would go some way into removing one without a breakage.

From above and below, who knows. Thought the Extractor Hood would go virtually over the top tiles anyway?

What that's metal too, a more up to date RCD & without a broken MCB cover? Sounds way too sensible!

You might be able to buy a flexible drill attachment to slowly drill through the plaster behind the tile but it will probably cost more than a tile to buy.

Time delayed fan?

In that case if you pull the slack on the cables down just use Wago connectors inside the light fitting. You might need to drill a hole in the fitting to do that and use a rubber grommet to protect the entry point. Have you more than one light as it looks like the switched live (the black with...

Before We/I answer questions can you get to the void above this light to see how the cables are run and where you could fix your new light to? If it's a yes there are maintenance free box options that could make fitting it far easier than fiddling about with wires above head height

Did he use a masonry drill into the plastic? I'd not have done that in fear of cracking the housing, I'd have used a good old fashioned bradawl. I'd have got rid of the plastic burring inside the plastic back box. I'd have drilled a pilot hole with a 5mm masonry drill bit first too to try to...

Disagree the repair was much worse, the install may have been done by a DIY'er! The company that did the repair & sent by the Landlord clearly aren't a great outfit. Crimps and tape outside (n)

No I personally don't think you need to.

16 mm is a bit overkill, use a 10mm drill bit if you're using flex, a good make of silicon should be enough to weather proof the hole or use a Wall Grommet if the flex you're using is thin enough. This link might help

Something like this > https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/QFJB3.html You could use one of these if you can get to the void above. > https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Wiring_Accessories_Menu_Index/Junction_Boxes/index.html#Ashley_J803

Getting back on topic: Post photos of your Consumer units. The garage one imho sounds like it just requires the correct make of RCBOS/MCBS. No biggy having a plastic consumer unit as it's not habitable or is it directly linked to the house? The regulation quoted is so if anyone drills into a...

No that sounds like a common installation method