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From memory, any socket used should be unswitched. This is to ensure that the plug must be pulled out disconnecting both live and neutral.

1. Copper or plastic can be used, except that: 1.1 Most boiler manufacturers specify copper for at least one metre from the boiler. 1.2 It used to be that plastic piping could not be used for domestic hot water with a secondary circulation system. Check with manufacturer of pipe and fittings...

1. Insurance won't necessarily get you a rapid fix to problems. Also tends to be overly expensive in the long run. 2. If anyone wants a bath, rather than a shower, be aware that the time to fill a bath can be excessive. 3. Before making any decision you need to know that the incoming mains...

1. First two pictures (RHS of joint, ...728, ...723) look fine. 2. Last picture (LHS of joint, ...718). Almost certainly fine, but I'd prefer to see a more distinct solder ring at the edge of the fitting. Did you wipe it with a damp cloth while still hot?

Does the screwed bit with a point unscrew from the thin handle? If so it may be an Allen grub screw. You would take the screw out, screw it in to secure the main part of the handle onto the valve spindle, then screw the thin part of the handle back onto the Allen grub screw.

Those look like 22mm pipes to me. If so, then likely to be central heating and not the hot and cold to the basin.

Possibly to ensure there is a source of hot water in the event the boiler is out of action.

1. You can get a blanking plug for the spigot to which the washing machine used to be connected. Mcalpine do them. 2. If water was coming out of the currently unsealed spigot, it suggests to me there is some sort of partial blockage in the drainage system. If there wasn't, waste water would...

1. As terryplumb, match insert to pipe manufacturer. 2. But don't use the JG Superseal inserts (the ones you have suggested) with compression fittings, use the plain (no O ring) inserts. The superseal ones can end up with an O ring right where the olive goes.

Is the boiler running constantly while heating the house, or does it run for a bit, stop for a bit then start running again? If so it points to a circulation problem. The boiler can't get rid of the heat fast enough, so overheats, turns itself off and waits until the water cools and then...

Two right angle elbows, two compression wall plate elbows and two short lengths of pipe?

1. As above, its nothing to do with the size of boiler. 2. If its a combi boiler, the likelihood is that you have inadequate mains pressure and / or flow rate.

1. Take the round part of the handle off the valve (should pull off the spindle inside). 2. Try fitting the handle lever. Then: 2.1 If it goes in, try re-orienting the round part on the spindle per trojanhawrs above. 2.2 If it doesn't, try and post a photograph of the internal thread, or at...

Looks like rodent damage to me.

Not sure what you mean by extend. 1. The flexis themselves cannot be extended, but you may be able to get new, longer ones. (See below) 2. The copper pipes can be extended by adding lengths of copper using: 2.1 Solder couplings. Best because once done its done forever. 2.2 Compression...

1. Make sure water is totally isolated. 2. Push grey plastic base ring inwards towards body of fitting. 3. With ring pushed in, pull fitting up off copper pipes.

Test that it is air and not hydrogen. The latter can be released by chemical action within the radiators. Usually indicates a system which needs cleaning.

1. Filling a bath from a combi is nearly always a slow process. 2. A combi takes in cold water and heats is as it flows through a secondary heat exchanger. Each boiler is designed to raise the temperature of the cold water by a certain temperature (typically 35 or 40 degrees Celsius). Clearly...

1. I doubt it would be much use upside down or if used much out of the vertical, but you seem to have already factored that in. 2. Given that you already have it, its worth a go. Probably OK on 15mm, might be more difficult on 22 mm. 3. Keys to soldering: 3.1 Pipe absolutely dry with no water...

1. You do NOT need to be Gas Safe Registered. 2. The filling loop must conform with that specified in the installation instructions. 3. Make sure the expansion vessel size is sufficient for the number of radiators fitted. Four percent of total system water volume *boiler, pipes, radiators...