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Possibilities: 1. The operating levers, (thin, chrome) unscrew and there are grub screws underneath. 2. There are grub screws at the back of the handles hidden by push in inserts. 3. They do just pull off. Unlikely, but try pouring hot water over the handles before pulling.

1. The ideal way to do it is by bending copper tube to go from the end of the new pieces into the isolation valves. Could probably be done with a bending spring. 9Internal, looks like 15 mm pipe) 2. However, if that's not an option, you could try a flexible plumbing "stick", such as Screwfix...

1, It is likely the hall radiator is fed by pipes tee'd off those which feed the living room radiator. 2. You have two choices: 2.1 Go under the floor and alter the pipes so that they suit the new radiator. You could probably bring them straight up through the hall floor rather than have that...

Four paragraphs on in the article quoted by polesapart its states: According to the Portland Cement Association the interaction of copper with both dry and wet concrete should not cause a corrosion concern. However, copper should be protected when it comes in contact with concrete mixtures that...

1. What make and model of boiler is it? 2. Could be: 2.1 Boiler firing up in ECO mode to provide quicker hot water. 2.2 Boiler firing as a frost protection measure. 3. Wouldn't altogether rely on British Gas to know what is happening.

My order of preference: 1. Old fashioned plug on a chain. Needs a bath or overflow fitted with the anchor point. 2. Pop waste operated by rod behind taps. Usually specific to a set of taps / waste fitting. 3. Overflow / cable operated. Fine as long as you operate it a couple of times a week...

Possibility: Leak on a radiator with a TRV set low. Only comes on (and leaks) when room temperature below set temperature?

You can use a freezer on plastic pipe. Worth putting some extra clamping on (e.g. plastic cable ties) as the plastic can compress more than copper, allowing the clamps to slip off before freezing.

1. Has the radiator ever warmed up, because if not I would suspect someone has closed the valves to stop them leaking. 2. That type of valve is of generally poor quality, and would probably best be replaced. 3. To get at the "innards" you have to remove the thin disc covers on the ends of the...

Given that it is already not working, might be worth prying that label out. If there is a screw behind it, undoing the screw might enable you to pull the handle off and turn the spindle with grips.

1. Assuming the hole with the light shining through it (2nd photo) is the one to access the screw, I would expect it to be an Allen grub screw. They usually need a 2.5 mm or 3mm Allen key. 2. Always put the plug in to avoid losing the grub screw. 3. Even with the screw removed, the handle may...

1. Unless you can find the exact same Myson TRV head, I doubt you will get away with just changing the head. Even a head with the same fittings may have a different distance from pin to thermostat, and would not work properly. 2. Try 'phoning Myson and see if they can help, otherwise it is...

If the handle comes off (screw in centre?) worth checking if handle is slipping on spindle. If so, remove handle, try turning spindle with grips.

Re-pressurise the boiler to around 1.2 - 1.3 bar. When you bled the radiator(s) you will have lowered the pressure in the system. Depending on your boiler it will not run if the pressure is below a certain value.

1. You won't get an external bending spring over that soldered stop end, and obviously you can't use an internal spring. 2. A cross thread say's, you should have the pipe terminated as close to the main gas carcase for the property as possible. 3. Even if it were bent using benders, you should...

1. The valve on the right of your radiator is what is known as a wheel head valve. You should be able to turn it open and closed without removing the while plastic cap. 2. The valve on the left is a lock-shield valve: 2.1 You would have to remove the white plastic cap to turn the spindle with a...

Its not the old plumbers who think that, it is some boiler manufacturers. Can void their warranties.

The best ones to go for are the ion exchange type. These use resin beads to "pull" the hardness from the water. Over time the beads become unable to absorb any more hardness, and are washed with a brine solution to restore that ability. Worth noting that the salt does not do the softening, it...

1. It the valve with the black handle highlighted with a red arrow in cdbe's response. 2. They are often very stiff to turn. If this is the case you can always turn the water off at the main stop-cock. If doing so, switch the boiler off as well.

1. Sill or Cill - either spelling. 2. The important gap is at the bottom, try for a minimum of 150mm off the floor, and avoid going below 100mm. 3. Gap below sill is less important, but go for more rather than less. 4. Spacing the radiator off the wall to clear the sill would be a waste of...