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Nice and classy but expensive and heavy

Like you have noticed you'r room is not straight, so when you cut your board, make the first cut straight, and then (so you can use the board again on the next run) and then make the angled cut taking into account the 10mm gap which you need to cover with the decorative trip. to cover the pipe...

Moisture could easily come up from the floor, and ..... you room above is warm, the ground is cold...... result condensation.... therefore you need airflow to disperse the moist air. ensure you have air bricks at the front and back of the property

I would hang first, mark it out perfect, take it down and plane it whilst its down, and make sure you hold the planer straight (level) and put the planer on its thinnest level, if you can? transfer the line to both sides of the door, so you are 100% sure you do it straight. its so easy to go...

You sure they are metal tiles, i think they are concrete, could explain why the walls probably have bowed in, there is to much weight on the wall just take the roof of, take the wall away and have a look at the foundation, it could well be that the foundation has settled and that might have...

What profile are you looking for?? option you have is to buy 2 doors of 700mm wide, trim the middle style back by about 50mm, and glue them together (so you are at 1200mm, so the middle style looks like the outer styles. sand them down and paint them if possible match them to you'r other doods...

Sorry i thought you had already hung it on it' hinges. No place the door in the opening and mark it, I would have probably hang it first (nice if you have hinges where you can pul the hingepin out) are you using an electric or hand plane?

So that doesn't look to bad. but... is the gap on the hinge side even, or is it more at the top?

Sorry you suggested a honeycomb the whole length, yes that is the best solution, i thought/presumed you ment to do it every now and again

Actually you can just stick a 3" pipe through the wall every 3 feet, and continue building, that is ok - like i said in the earlier post you need to create airflow

Ok, don't shoot me, but i believe that bin, is the sump pump basin (actually i'm pretty sure), is it within easy access of your trap door? just google sump pump basin, or galvanised sump pump basin - and then images

Your tile has a bit of a bevel, so your socket face plate will not sit very flush. - it is what it is. just remember after cutting and fitting the tile, you probably have to buy longer screws, as the ones supplied with the socket, are probably to short I cut most of the tiles with a good...

I would go with "super" dry sand

how much is the gap vs the bottom, how much needs to be planned down? and is the gap on the hinge side all the way down equal - how is the top of the door fitting - IS your door frame square??

How much are you trying to gain here

NOT TRUE if.... Use proper steel reinforcement I-beams and place the railway sleepers in-between, good for centuries to come, that is if you use pressure treated railway sleepers DSC_2466 by Chris, on Flickr DSC_2467 by Chris, on Flickr DSC_2492 by Chris, on Flickr Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

That is no rubble, that almost practical clean I think you are lacking airflow, are there any air bricks

Get a proper cement backer board 6mm and you will be fine, best to put the board down with tile adhesive and than screw and ...... stacker the joints.

Lots of work - but the result is good, you'r doing a proper job

Repair of an HDMI cable The lounge was already finished and fully decorated when I moved my AV equipment in. However wife and kids didn’t like the color of the lounge, something like to wrong tint of white. So as usuall she changed it. My wife is very handy with a paintbrush and to redecorate...