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Try the Shower Doctor dot com - you'll find exploded diagrams of your mixer, asd well as all the others in their range.

Are you sure? In the video, it looks like the float is stuck at the bottom of its travel

Flameport - I think we're at cross purposes here. Firstly, sorry about my typo - the OP has a ST699 and I mistakenly typed 'ST799'. I agree that the ST799 is a 7-day programmer - as per your PDF link - but it's still not possible AFAIK to program the CH and DHW to operate at separate times -...

You are quite correct - the ST799 programmer does not allow the CH and DHW to be run at individual times. I changed mine for a Honeywell ST9400C last year for exactly this reason - the ST9400C allows individual time control of CH and DHW; and also allows up to 3 different switch-on an switch-off...

Have you tried turning the spout so that it is parallel with yur window-sill; and THEN trying to pull it free of the tap body? Try it one way - say towards the hot tap-head - and if that doesn't work, try towards the cold tap head.

Thanks for that, stem. Still a little confused, however - if the motorised valve is faulty and not sending a switched live to the boiler, how come the electronic ignition and fan are working? Conversely, if the m/v is working ok and is sending switched live to the boiler, how come the burner...

Yesterday, my boiler shut down, and the house went cold. I have an open-vented system configured as a Y-plan; the boiler is a Potterton Netaheat 16-22 Electronic; the 3-way valve is a Honeywell V4073; there is a Honeywell cylinder stat and there is no room stat; TRVs are fitted on all...

You might like to ask your plumber to install an isolating valve inside the house, to shut off the supply to the outside tap in winter. This will help prevent it freezing up in the future

A family friend – a woman of almost 90 – has asked me for advice regarding replacement of an old gas fire – pic attached. This gas fire has been in place for many, many years – within the last year or so, the piezo ignition failed, and a local handyman dealt with this by cutting a...

Your current programmer seems to be a Honeywell ST712, which has an industry standard backplate. I would suggest you replace with a Honeywell ST9400C, a 7 day programmer with fully independent control of CH & DHW - which also has a standard backplate - so should require no rewiring. Try ebay - I...

Dead animal under the bathroom floor, perhaps?

Uh, sorry - my mistake! I recently installed the very-similar looking Honeywell ST9400C at home - this unit does allow different programming for each day of the week. Here's a link to its manual: http://www.honeywelluk.com/product.aspx?r=tco&p=2450 Once again, these are available at very...

Sorry, not able to answer your question about the intermittent display; but the ST9400S does in fact allow programming of different times each day for both CH and DHW. Here's a link to the manual...

Sounds like the condense pipe - usually 21.5mm plastic, same as overflow pipe. I'd insulate it using 22mm Climaflex pipe wrap, available from B&Q etc. Cut mitres carefully and wrap joins with insulating tape.

Uhh - hasn't 'gramatical' got two ms? :oops:

I agree with mysteryman's advice - if you don't feel confident, probably best to get someone in. If however you do feel like giving it a go, the steps are these: 1. Shut off water supply to cistern, and flush it 2. Bale out remaining water 3. Underneath the cistern, you'll find a large...

Sounds like the diaphragm has had it's day. This is a small rectangle of thin plastic inside the syphon - which is the large green device in the middle of the picture. It's a pain to replace, as it means removing the syphon to get at the innards. If it were me, I would take the opportunity...

Here's a link to the manual http://danfoss-randall.co.uk/PCMPDF/14033.pdf Hope this helps