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Or you could just grind off the boss with a rotary file back to the soil pipe and bond on a replacement.

If your FP720 has an industry standard backplate and your sparky wired it correctly then you could swap it for a Drayton LP722. I have a LP722 controlling pumped heating and gravity hot water. It replaced a mechanical controller that had an industry standard back plate meaning it was a matter...

Never had a post treated with engine oil fail. I mix it 50/50 with kerosine and paint it onto the lower half of new posts.

You can feed a power washer from an outside water butt or a portable plastic container.

You need to go into Disc management and give it a letter.

It has an amazing 40 year certification period from the safety standards people.

Well if there is a problem with the digital controller then most likely it lies with the valve assembly as thats the bit that takes most punishment.

The boost button shouldn't be stuck in on a new rotary control. I would get it replaced if I was you. You dont want to be running your shower on constant boost.

So yes the cost of getting a tree surgeon in can be pretty high. Goodness knows how you magic up those sort of fees if you are living on a minimum income. I guess many people who might be considered as unreasonable and inconsiderate neighbours just dont have that sort money.

You could talk to the neighbour and suggest a hight reduction to the tree and if they dont want to foot the bill (which can be prohibitively expensive for many) then maybe offer to pay for it yourself as that might be cheapest option in the long run.

Well you could check/replace the photo cell I guess in the first instance but it could be lots of things. If the start cycle fails the boiler should lock out. Not happening here and if memory serves me I saw that exact scenario a few years back with the boiler start cycle endlessly repeating and...

Hiring out FGAs - I bet they get quite a few back requiring expensive repair and re-calibration.

Ive tried several of these mould cleaners without success. What I now do is scrub neat bleach onto the grouting using an old toothbrush. I leave it for 24 hours before rinsing off. I find that works very well.

We tried an ultrasonic deterrent but found it didnt deter bats from entering our attic. In the end we managed to get rid of them by providing alternative accommodation. We put bat boxes high up on the gable wall near where we think they enter and in trees in the garden. After a few months the...

Were these joints assembled with biscuits? If not then they have probably just moved - nothing to do with bolt tension or water ingress.

Our 1960s oil fired 3 bed home uses about 350 Litres of oil in an average winter month. Thats about 3500 Kw and sometimes if the temp drops below zero we fire up the coal fire but no idea what that adds to the Kw total.

Assuming the boiler is connected to a FCU you could try replacing the FCU fuse, unplug or disconnect the power cable at the the boiler (safety the exposed wires if you do the latter), then switch on the FCU and see if the fuse blows.

Back in the day a lot of these old systems were originally connected to coal stoves and had a towel rail on the primary as a safety feature. If you have a towel rail in the bathroom might be worth checking to see what its connected to.

So what you are trying to do here is constrain the HW temperature down to a safe level and prevent convection heating the radiators in the summer. Is that right?

Well with a 4ft header I dont know how likely it is that air is somehow finding its way to the pump inlet. The way these pumps operate is that they have a far greater capacity than the burner can ever need and they spill back the surplus to the pump inlet. That means the pump heats up quite...