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To be fair, I doubt anyone does now! They can quote the required U-values for each element, but ask them how to achieve that and it's another matter.

The 150 he wants in the eaves walls is off the top of his head and will not be as cost-effective as extra insulation in the roof, as per O.B.N.D. Consider just a little more on the underside of the roof - say 75 instead of 50 if the headroom still works for you, and just 100 in the dwarf wall...

Similar appearance generally refers to the colour of the original, so if your proposed tiles are red and your existing (ie previously-replaced tiles) are red or reddish-brown, you will be fine. The rule is to prevent dormers being clad in totally unsympathetic materials such as white PVC shiplap...

Most inspectors (and not a few SEs) seem to have a mindset that "steel beam = concrete padstone". But that's only necessary if the beam is heavily loaded. Up at roof level, the loads are unlikely to be high so the pressure at the bearing may not be very much. See FMT above.

You could put cross ties higher up, but best not more than 1/3 the height between the wall plate and ridge board. You can't do without something to tie the rafters together (unless you use a ridge beam as per Noseall).

A 50 or 75 mm deep wall plate will not shrink by much, at least in so far as it won't be noticed or have an effect on the structure.

Who said you have to split the wall plate to padstone the bearing - SE or building inspector? If the load is not excessive, its perfectly OK to seat a steel beam direct on the wall plate. The timber design codes give allowable bearing pressures on timber members perpendicular to the grain. A...

Any vapour barrier should be on the warm side of the insulation.

No problem with that as long as they are connected in someway so that rising damp doesn't work around them.

Sounds like there's just insufficient insulation; 15º is not acceptable for a bedroom. If you have a flat-roof dormer, you'd need a total of around 150mm thickness of foil-faced board in the roof (usually 100mm between the joists and 50 mm underneath, with taped joints) going by the regs in...

I've seen this spec advised by several inspectors, yet the Kingspan U-value calculator says you can have a 50mm clear cavity and 75 PIR board against aac block, and you still get 0.18. I'd be very wary of using a 10mm cavity; using partial-fill board in any case requires more care than - say -...

Yes, generally the work has to comply with standards in force at the time the application is registered. But I think there is a rule that if the work commences more than one year after registration, you have to comply with the new requirement? But not sure - I might be wrong?

Gotta make a living somehow....

Why build separate piers, which he seems to be suggesting? Surely you just need to tidy up the existing brickwork where its cut back, and then place the padstones. At 300 long (which personally I think is excessive, unless the masonry is of low compressive strength) there should be no need to...

The SE who designed the steel beam should have advised on this.

damn! beat me to it!

You'd just put a small steel beam across the doorway - something like a 152 x 89 would be fine. Put decent-sized padstones each end.

It won't collapse, but if you want the old fireplace recess opened up, you'll need to block the flue.

(removed).

I know that. (A previous poster had commented that the window frame appeared flush with the brickwork face).