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Unless someone says otherwise, I feel the only option is to remove the tiles to access. Normally, the overflow has a connection to the bath, with rubber grommet / washer and held in place by the plastic / metal part bath-side, screwed on to it. Failing this, perhaps remove part of the ceiling below?

What size tv is that? No idea what design your mounting brackets are but personally, I would construct a secondary frame ie having multiple fixings over a larger area and then mount it off of that. Maybe build a 3x2 stud frame / false wall? If you end up boarding the frame then obvs affix the tv...

Can you not remove the bath panel? Access to pipework, waste, taps and overflow etc is all usually done from underneath after taking the side panel off.

If you're sure it's your hedge AND you own the property then I suggest a quiet word. He may not have realised that he was doing wrong (or he may have but that's another thing). Culture differences can be a funny thing. You need to keep civil with your neighbours firstly cos it makes a more...

You haven't said what your ceiling height is.

From many of the general comments on this forum, I don't think that this is really the best to 'open up' to. Kudos to those that have. If anonymous posting was permitted then maybe. And I'm sure would be very useful and welcomed by many.

You could use thinner board, 6mm or 9mm and skim over. Obvs taping the joints before feathering in. And still use the new architrave that you've bought.

I'd just select some form of larger architrave. If you keep it bland rather than moulded then it won't look too bad. Trying to skim as you've probably discovered, isn't going to work being on to wood and, if you attach plasterboard and then skim, it will leave you with different levels.

Personally I'd skim-coat the whole lot. Lining paper will always show up the imperfections. Any areas currently sounding hollow, you can hack off (is it just the current skim that's loose or the whole base coat too) or, drill, pva and glue back to the wall. I've done this many a time, especially...

It's pretty frustrating when people are limiting with the details. Why can't you pull the carpet back, expose the 'step' / threshold plus missing skirting area plus the floor under the carpet and post a full and comprehensive photo? Then we can all see what you have currently. Surely based upon...

I'd trim the carpet a bit first. I'd probably go with the top one too. What's that little shelf bit showing just under the carpet? Normally the stair stringer would extend up and flow directly into the skirting.

How old is the property? Has the room always been a kitchen? They could have been installed as a means of certain ventilation when a gas or other combustible appliance is present. We have similar in our Lounge. We had the gas fire capped off and don't use the fireplace at all now so, we simply...

You say 50% bigger, do you mean higher (the sketch is not to scale btw) or, make it double-skin? The latter would mean adding tie-ins of some sort into the existing pillar for the second skin, presumably using angle brackets etc screwed to the face of the pillar and then bed in each mortar course.

Thanks Tony. The current wall is 1.6m high from ground level, one brick thick, with pillars (210 square) at 1.1m spacings face to face. Footings are 500mm deep. My plan is to add an additional one-brick thick wall, 250mm long, 1.4m high, at 90 degs to the end pillar to stop / reduce the...

Thanks. Would you be able to advise if I were to provide this info?

My garden wall had developed some large cracks over the past few years and got particularly bad this year. So much so that we've knocked it down and, once the footings have been dug out, are likely to replace it with a hedge instead. The situation we current have is the existing neighbouring...

Google images. You may find that they are still available to purchase somewhere.

Oh dear. I would cut out the whole lot, affix a wooden plate / batten greater than the bracket size, the thickness of the gap behind the plasterboard. Or even, thickness to include the plasterboard thickness. Then, screw the bracket to the wood or, through the wood and into the wall behind. You...

I'd agree with this comment. The threads are not coarse enough for plasterboard and tbh, I wouldn't trust anything hanging off of plasterboard anyway. Anything heavy, kitchen cabinets etc and these rads that you suggest, I would drill through the board and direct-fix into the substrate behind...

Hex flange coach screws