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Instructions on the tub - I think slurry is 5 cement to 1 slurry, mortar is 3:1 sharp sand to cement with whatever SBR the instructions say - it adds strength, water resistance, flexibility and stickyness.

A slit blade in a grinder would do it (you could make a jig if your hands aren't that steady. If you have a chop saw a stainless blade would do it.

I did my slightly sunken garage a few years ago One SBR is pretty much the same as another. The instructions should tell you how to use it as a tanking slurry and as a waterproof mortar additive. I used 3:1 sharp sand and cement, my fillet was about 2" deep and high. The working time is short...

Pictures, details about the wall - cavity/solid/external/internal, services (pipes, cables) on the wall etc.

As above, replace the fillet inside and outside and add to the steps. Use cement SBR slurry as a tanking/bonding agent and as a waterproofer in your mortar mix. You need to be thorough and methodical in your preparation and work and be aware that SBR only has a short working time. The fact that...

You can go through the roof - depending on the roof.

One of the best things you can get for this situation is this stuff: Unfortunately it's not technically designed for the purpose - its made for roof decks. If laid on a flat concrete floor it's Incredibly rigid. In terms of your project - it's quite common for councils and HA's to sell off...

If you want to sell the house why change a well maintained working boiler? If you want to because you think it will make it more sellable then maybe try one of those online box slinger types - Boxt.

You need to step back for a minute and have a good look at the entire property. I don't really understand what "remediation" is, but if it (including "wall insulation") was carried out in 2003 and the place subsequently became riddled with mould I would question what work was done and to what...

Remember, we're looking for the most difficult way to solve this! How about a temporary tarpaulin over the roof while he gathers the materials for the permanent repair:

They normally fail after 41 years! Seriously, weather (allegedly) getting worse and the mortar on the gable getting worn and possibly loosing adhesion over the years. Once that gable masonry cracks you have a world of trouble. And for a few hours work he'll have a tick in the box when he comes...

It isn't. I did it myself, 10mm plastic. I think the issue can be noise - we have a bit of gentle water noise in the downstairs WC pipe which is chased into the plaster - it has a very unrestricted tap which flows a lot more than the kitchen one - which is very quiet. I did wonder about 10mm...

I've done a few of these over the years. Very often the original board (usually phenolic ply on a decent trailer, or some other standard board) is slightly rotted and/or quite thin (eg 15mm). I pre drill and use standard wood screws but find there's not enough "meat" in the board below and the...

I estimate about 8m. All my hot outlets are supplied via radials (sink/basin/appliances 10mm, showers 15mm) so we get hot water everywhere in seconds. I've mentioned this before when people witter on about spending a fortune on secondary circulation systems for not especially large houses. I...

This is how much hot water I need to draw off before it burns my finger, 10mm radial from unvented cylinder.

I do, built my extension and rendered my house with one. But I bought a decent Vitrex one. The Aldi thing I started with died halfway through the second bucket.

Can anyone help with this? I don't know whether it's 175 or 75? Both seem available for these things.

Mine was very similar. I reglued and screwed some of the old blocks at the sides, doubled up the rest at the front tread/riser joints and then used timber when I ran out, I used angle iron at the back - rock solid now.

Depends what you want to do - render, waterproof masonry paint, a few coats of Thompsons? I can't see what a fillet (though I wonder if you mean a plinth?) at the bottom will do except trap water that has soaked into the wall at the bottom - You really need to establish the existing damp...

Far better with rigid (PIR), just place on the walls and screw your boards through with long thin screws - either into the existing studs, or carefully into the OSB. It's performance by depth is far better and it's continuous rather than bits with timber between. You can tape the joints with...