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Google 'lost head screws'. But obviously the lost head means less fixing power. Maybe a small washer in your clip + a lost head screw would work? I would test just the lost head screws first, see how much they resist pulling out.

Shave the sides off the clips. Bit of a fiddly job. No, that's not going to work, because the centre of the clip would still be too wide for the bottom of the planks. Replace them with penny washers?

I reckon that a square box will be absolutely fine as a gatepost, right up until the point where fails spectacularly :)

Here's how I would approach this: - Hoover/pick/scrape/brush out as much of the loose material as possible - Squirt PVA in to the crack. Might have to push it in with a thin something or inject it with a syringe. Clamp it shut with multiple clamps - but I can't see how tall that bit of timber...

Is the change in load correlated across these meters? If so, one could estimate how many are in service by looking at how the load changes when the on peak/off peak signal is sent.

I would just leave it and see if it comes back. Some plants [eg alder and hazel] will send up lots of new shoots after being pruned hard, some will be mortally wounded.

What is the shelf for? Only MDF and chipboard would be a worse choice than OSB for an outdoor shelf, if longevity is a concern.

I don't know what it is. The stem looks like alder or hazel but the leaves look like lilac. In any case, it looks like it's on a trajectory where it will tower over your conservatory and you probably don't want that, so get rid. If it is a lilac it could be pruned down to a more manageable size.

There are two fuels and four lines, the dashed ones represent the SVT unit rate cap. The lines that vary day to day represent what was actually charged.

Make the pad the same size as the summerhouse. If the pad is too big, rain will splash up and shorten the life of the lower timbers.

If all this was about, was convection, then you might have a point, but the loft isn't airtight and there is a breeze, so air moves both ways. When I opened the loft hatch, after a while I could smell the smell of the loft. So air from the loft definitely came down.

Yes indeed, at 1800 it was 26°C in my office yesterday and 37°C in the loft. I wasn't expecting conduction, it was more convection I had in mind. But I think you pointing out that the gradient is the "wrong direction" to cool down the habitable space means that opening the loft hatch won't work.

How about opening the loft hatch? Heat rises, so in theory the warmest air from the habitable space should go up into the roof void.

I'm in two minds about this one. If you seal it 100% effectively, water won't get in and hang around. If you seal it 99% effectively, water will get in but take ages to dry out, causing rot. I would make sure both surfaces are well treated with oil and then leave it unsealed.

40-50kg is one hell of a solar panel, how big is it?

There are plenty of plants that will come back every year, produce flowers and spread, thus out-competing the weeds. A few off the top of my head: - geranium - toadflax - foxglove - strawberry ["wild"/alpine type] - aquilegia All of the above are not "fancy" and won't require too much caring for.

They were invented by a Dutchman for cooking chips which are called 'frituur' [something like that] and he called it a 'fritair', which is presumably a neat pun in Dutch. For marketing purposes this was changed to 'air fryer'. Try making some chips in an air fryer without oil and tell me how...

Even if you stop them coming through the membrane, they will also grow in the gravel. Set expectations to the customer here, it's going to require maintenance no matter how you lay it.

Who is going to be looking at this? Can you "hide" the angle iron with the post? ie, it will look like a wooden post from one side but will actually have the angle iron screwed to it.

It's unlikely that shingle would be any less likely to attract weeds than the slabs you've taken up.