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lol common sense would say it should be a k1 if double double is k2

New rads are thinner metal than old rads so heat transfer is quicker

K1 is single panel rad with fins not a 21 double . P+ is a 21 ;)

with water in it , it must be north sea gas ;)

yep , when there isnt any room get a big hacksaw blade wrap abit of duct tape on it to hold and the do the best to cut through it with small strokes obviously as pros we will have multitools / reciprocating saws but have used just a blade many a time

you can pay hundreds more for couple of years longer warranty

Although water is the usual cause it is Not unusual for fittings to not come off it may have been really tight before even being initially soldered

Christ know why anyone would suggest a complete re run for such a basic repair

https://www.wolseley.co.uk/product/archergas-st15-heating-pump-15-60-130-new/?srsltid=AfmBOopik0fYQ3H1HS0gl7MnvdiE7RSbC2R0WoGPRkETorNH7UiwKFe3

pretty certain the top one is HW you can see the pipe going to cylinder

Clean inside of pipe and get a 12mm to 15mm adaptor stick the 12mm end into pipe and solder it in

Plastic threads ? Or brass

Wont harm it in any way done thousands like this with no ill effect

https://www.toolstation.com/search?q=tap+reviver

i think what he is really asking what is cheaper

Put a pic up of the trap etc under the sink perhaps that can be twisted a bit to get pipe to stick out further

Eco compact good little boiler when they first came out around 10 years ago there was an issue with the integrated control unit. But that was ironed out 7 or 8 years ago .

Use copper it has bigger internal bore than plastic

How do octopus know its out of calibration the standard policy term for a g6 type meter change is 20 years of age . Cant see a service not being buried deep enough causing the anti tamper device to activate . I have fitted /and attended thousands of meters with anti tamper device and never seen...

if he sticks a pic up of the otherside he maybe able to change the plug to a bleed