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As in 100mm? Not 440mm with an l shape pad -on the outside skin.

Ok, sounds like a few inches longer beam would be a good idea. Thanks.

Yes I've been looking at prices for them. Was wondering if the beam should or shouldn't have a longer bearing on the pad?

Yes. Thanks

Like it. Ta

Hello. I'm talking about 25mm to 22mm. I've found a stop tap made by hep that does it but it seems to be very rare and most places don't seem to sell it. Any suggestions?

I'm guessing that's a piece welded to the beam and not a mold?

I agree about moving the wall. Think the steel being on the very edge is a bit weird though I can only think of throwing mortar in there.

Yes full plans but the the engineer is a piece of work. If I have to I'll move the wall in, 8 inches seems the norm I suppose?

He only specified the beams and padstones as 440 size. He doesn't seem to give a lot of detail on anything. He knows it's flush across though

Wanted to check if the method on the drawing attached is ok. It's for a wall going across the back of a side extension flush with the back of the existing but doesn't feel completely right as it's not in the middle of the padstone.

Oh you mean a 4x2 on top of the blocks?

Thanks people. To give a little update I actually spoke to the seller because they pushed their luck a little bit with the description. We agreed a partial refund so we both did ok considering. It'll give me a few pounds to fix it if there's no other problems. Thanks

Thanks everyone, a few different opinions but it seems no one likes the sitting it on the blocks option which suits me. By the way I take it carpenters are getting plenty is work at the moment because it's hard to get anyone to even quote for cutting a roof on this area.

Light weight. Celcon or thermolite.

I just picked up a cheap eBay mountain bike for my little boy. Seller didn't give a very fair deception if the condition bit I'm just trying to see if the repair is doable before attempting to take it back. I'll attach a picture but basically the right gear shifter was very stiff at the top...

I'm talking about either cuttings the blocks to height and laying the joist on top or bolting wood to the wall and using jiffy hangers? was wondering if there's a better way in anyone's opinion? Thanks.

No the soffit touches the top of the window frame so hides it. It seems to have been common practice in this area. My last place had no lintels over the outside skin on all windows even ground floor ones. Just had expanded metal above the first course .

Thanks gents. I removed some plaster above the window and there was a course of bricks layed on the window frame overhanging to bridge the cavity with I assume just the soffit sitting on top of them. Not surprised the plaster couldn't cope. Thanks for your help.

I'll include some photos of cracks we have. There's one above a window that's on a side wall of the house. I only noticed it when stripping wallpaper off. There's also a fine crack on the ceiling just above which I'll hopefully show. And there's another fine one which is on the outside wall just...