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Mine was certainly improved by removing the chimney and all those other horrible protrusions surrounded by manky leadwork and plastic. But I imagine if you have a more rustic house a chimney is more of a feature.

I can't see any cracks, just a few places where the pointing has crumbled away. That said, chimneys can be a pain - not from falling down, there's no possibility of it doing that short of a tornado strike - but from leaks and damp and the general maintenance they require. I had mine taken off...

Holy balls. Worse than useless.

You post like we can't see what you wrote. "never paint masonry - & never paint plastic." So don't pretend you were talking about difficulties or exceptions. There is no issue whatsoever painting properly prepared masonry or plastic with the correct materials.

In the same way I wouldn't advise respraying your car if it's rusted through, covered in moss and half buried in a marsh, I wouldn't advise painting your wall if it's 'sodden' through, stuffed with wet insulation and subject to rising damp.

Not really. Poor quality masonry paint, especially on badly prepared walls, will crack and allow water penetration, plus will not permit evaporation, leading to moisture retention. Prepare your walls and use quality breathable paint and you can reduce water absorption to practically zero, and...

That's the worst thing I've set eyes on this week. Jesus wept. And beyond the obvious criminal atrocity of the whole thing, it looks like the peculiar leadwork towards the top of that gap actually feeds underneath the membrane half way down.

That angle is somewhere between 1 and 2 degrees. When it gets to 20 you need to worry.

Thanks.

Can anybody recommend a filler for chases and filling of old socket recesses up to 70mm? Other than the ready-to-use fillers, which work OK but are hugely expensive, I haven't been able to find anything. I was recommended Easifill 60 but on receiving it and and reading the package I see it's...

The risk from the solar radiation whilst doing the work is vastly greater than the risk from the asbestos. As for the ladder...

Which is why I twice recommended the OP get professional assessments from people who routinely do such work, as opposed to saying it's 'very basic' stuff that 'any roofer' can do, and the rest of the *******s you've posted.

For your own sake, pretend you never read anything that poster wrote. Get multiple assessments and estimates from firms with a proven history of working on such buildings, because if you don't, that roof has the potential to financially turn out your lights. Good luck.

Isn't the stepped valley between the extension and the house lead? It's basically a roof in itself.

Those tiles look porous from the salt deposits. So 13,000+ new tiles, 2 substantial turrets needing a specialist heritage roofer, 8 valleys, 4 ridges, 2 enormous crumbling chimneys, a flat lead roof, complex scaffolding, 1500m2 of felt, several kms of batten, 8 waste skips, plus anything else...

I'd be budgeting six figures for that. It has just about every complexity you could imagine for a tiled roof.

The first thing I'd do is have a professional assessment. Because if, like I would estimate, it's nearing the end of its life in its entirety, you're looking at one gargantuan bill. Even if it's 'only' a case of replacing battens, how much do you think that will cost? It's essentially a re-roof.

Great thread, looking forward to another puzzler along the lines of, "I **** in my pants and I can't work out why they smell."

If it looks like this, there might be a problem...

I had a repair done on the ridge tiles, valleys and chimney of a similarly decrepit roof. The chimney repair failed immediately so they came back and removed the chimney completely. Then the valleys failed, ironically because the tiles are in such a state that previously the water that they...