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Ah yes - would it make more sense to knock that row of dense blocks off on the inner leaf, and put solid timber blocking up to the outer leaf? I will need to support this section somehow anyway as joists run perpendicular, and means I can run the insulation right up to the bifolds.

On which bricks? It's a timber suspended floor so I assumed no DPM, concrete oversite is below the 250mm void

Thanks! Seems like a few votes to say this would be fine. I would plan to do the following in this order: 1. Joists (no insulation) 2. 22mm t&g chipboard, glued and screwed 3. 100mm PIR (floating) 4. Vapour barrier (or tape the PIR) 5. 18mm t&g chipboard 6. Wunda unferfloor heating mats 7...

Yeah, this is what should have happened. A brick course below for the bifolds would have been fine, but I can't do much about it now without buying a whole new bifold - if I remove the bifold and sit it lower, i will have a massive gap at the top, which I don't think I can make look right due to...

Yeah the threshold height. The existing kitchen joists and new extension joists are the same height and as far as I can tell, the DPC is 10mm above where the finished floor height should be. The bifold is then sitting on top of this level, which effectively means the threshold + 10mm or so...

It's possible the DPC is lower than I think, i'll be able to confirm in a couple days. If there is an issue with it i'll have to call the builder responsible for the shell, however likely not a lot that can actually be done about it now if the DPC level is wrong. In any case, I still have the...

This extension is coming off the kitchen. The existing kitchen has a step down into it (100mm), as the back of the original house is lower, so by raising this entire room I effectively remove the step and have it level throughout. Yeah. Taking out all this brick also means messing with the roof...

There is a row of brick soldiers above the bifolds, so I wouldn't be able to do this - I would have to buy a whole new bifold that's taller

Assume error by the bricklayers but they are long gone - not much I can do about it now anyway! In the picture I sent, the joists go left to right, and are in pockets in the wall, ends wrapped in DPC. I may have gotten the outside DPC level wrong - I think it's the brick level the bifold is...

It would definitely be hassle now as bifolds are in. There is already a step down into this room, as the back of the property is a slightly lower level, so no real issues there. If anything, this would remove the need for the existing step and have it level all the way through.

I don't have the best picture as i'm not on site, but here's the door: With the current build up, the DPC/ top of the brick that the bifold is sitting on would effectively be about 10mm above FFL. I didn't realise how big the bifold frame would be, so factoring in the levelling, the size of...

There's been a bit of a mistake with the bricklayers (long gone) and the height for the bifolds in my extension - essentially just too high. To avoid putting astep in before the door, I'm considering putting PIR over the whole floor, instead of between the joists. This should sort the level...

If it's every few years it needs a paint then that's great, i'd probably change it for something else in a few years anyway!

Not as far as I know. But then I would be painting it with an exterior paint, so this should mostly weatherproof it

Good to know - how has the paint held up for you/ have you had to repaint? Any pics of it would be great, I can't fully visualise what it would look like

That's a good shout, I can cut the big sheets down to thirds and have long vertical strips. How often is regular for the painting? The roof has a slight overhang and there's a fence next to it, so shouldn't get battered with the weather. I may even put a bit of trellis on top of it and allow...

I've built an outbuilding, and am in the process of cladding it now. It's concrete block all round (had to incorporate a retaining wall into it), which i've battened and clad with timber on half of it. On the other half, down the fence side, I can't bring myself to spend the massive cost on...

The house is going to be split into flats, so want/ need to minimise sound as much as possible. Sound proofing to building regs is pretty minimal, so I want to go quite a bit beyond this as I will still be living in the property.

Any suggestions on best products here?

I need to provide some good soundproofing on my newly installed loft floor. The old FF ceiling/ loft floor has been replaced by new joists, 200x50 at 400 centres. The SE has said I need to glue and screw ply to the joists so I won't be able to float the subfloor. The current plan is to put...