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Yes weird that at the same time the plastic anchor holding the return spring broke off? Still it's all working perfectly now :) Just having fun & games trying to add Hive to my Home Assistant:(

Ok a sucessfull update !! I swapped the 3-way valve for another one and the Central Heating now works perfectly :)) So many, many thanks to all those that helped my sort this out !! On examination of the removed 3-way valve, I noticed a rattling sound from something clearly loose inside and on...

I can only explain this by saying the the Hive contacts are really bad at gripping the wires, no matter how tightly you screw them up. A couple were loose but I think they are definitely anchored in now.

So I guess the next step is to fit another motorised head unit (I do have a spare) ?

Yes the old wall thermostat is removed and is shorted out at the terminal block. Before I did this, I had set the old thermostat to maximum. Disconnect inv and shorting out at the terminal block made no difference to the operation of the CH.

Sorry for my ignorance, do you mean the short at the end of the room thermostat wires?

Here they are -

So do I :) I will double check the 3-way valve voltages and add to the table :)

Here are the measurements of on Terminal 1 (Wire removed) :-

I could try that next. So remove the wire from Terminal 1 and then measure the voltage on the Hive terminal?

OK I did two things today. (1) I swapped over the LP241 but it still did the same thing ie CH On - only when HW on at the same time. (2) The second thing I did was measure the AC voltages on the terminal block at the back of the HIVE unit while connected :-

Yes I missed that point . I'll try an measure the HW off, HW on & CH on the terminals on the back of the Hive control unit. If they match those measured on the 3-valve, in particular grey HW off - then the Hive unit is suspect - I also verify this by refitting the LP241 and seeing if CH on works...

Well luckily I do have a spare Drayton MA1 3 position valve I can swap over...

It would be real coincidence if the tank thermostat was faulty at the same time as swapping the hive unit. So I wonder if the hive unit is actually providing the HW off mains supply? I could try and measure this at the control box?? A faultly Hive unit would make the most sense?

Interesting !!! so there is definitely a HW off connection on the controller terminal block. I wonder if there is a problem with the Hive unit? I will temporarily re-fit the LP241 controller and see what that does (CH should be on continuously as I shorted out the thermostat in the wiring box)

OK managed to measure voltages (All AC voltages) this evening :) HW + CW Both on (Boiler On). Orange = 240V, White = 240V, Grey = 0V HW Only On. (Boiler On) Orange = 240V, White = 28V, Grey = 0V CH Only On (Boiler off??). Orange = 0V, White = 240V, Grey = 15V

I'm fairly sure everything was working fine before swapping the LP241 control unit to the Hive one. And I took the photo of the terminal connector before I took the other wires off, so I know that the wiring hasn't changed. I've recovered the original LP241 so I might put that back in place of...

Ok so when I fitted the hive control unit, the original mechanical thermostat was still connected and I set it to 30degC (ie maximum). This when I realized that the CH would only come on when the HW was set to on. I then shorted out the thermostat at the terminal box without making any...

OK Here are photos of the original LP241 plate (I had removed the three L wires), The Hive plate and the mess of wiring in the junction box :(

Greetings. Having studied many of the threads on here replacing the Lifestyle LP241, I decided to buy a dual channel Hive receiver + Thermostat and replace my LP241. Hive version - Hive Thermostat for Heating & Hot Water Control (Conventional Boilers), With Hive Nano 3 Hub, White, A...