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Thanks @Wayners . Good to know. Cheers

Cheers for the heads up. I did find one site that still claims to sell it, but I suspect that they have old, or no stock. It is no longer listed on the British Gypsum site. I guess they are now pushing hardwall as the alternative for high suction walls- but I am not a plasterer...

One of my best mates is a plasterer. He used to get, somewhat, animated when I referred to the base coat as being bonding (rather than browning). According to him, the former is used for low suction substrates such as concrete. I dunno. I just fill the chase with whichever of the two that I...

That must be gutting. The work was v impressive. Cold comfort but... your joints didn't fail. It is a shame that @jobandknock is no longer around these days. He would have been my go to for such advice.

I purchased the partially teflon/PTFE Roughneck one. I have been happy with it. From memory it was less than £30. The full PTFE version was just shy of £50. Mine has a PTFE needle and can be stripped down. It was supplied with two long(ish) straws and two conical nozzles which go down to 2mm in...

Fair point. I phrased my post badly. I didn't mean that the blade would deform backwards. I was suggesting that without the guide wheel, there would be pressure to push the blade backwards. That will then put pressure on the fixing mechanism and, additionally, increase the likelihood of the...

Over the years, I have had a couple of customers who blew the main fuse because they were running too many appliances at once whilst having a party. They got someone to swing by and fit a new fuse. In theory, how long would a DNO take to turn up?

I have never used the company. I was simply trying to provide a link to the product. In no way am I endorsing them. Sorry, I should have made that clear. When I click on the link for the single bit, it says £1.96 - granted they don't make it clear that the price is ex VAT but having had a...

As per @foxhole 's earlier post, I would try to bend the arms (very carefully) first. It might be the case that the spring"clamps" inside the fitting have become loose over time. Tinning the arms with solder might help if the bulb is still loose. One of my Festool sanders has a dodgy Plug It...

In the past, I have seen people recommending that bolts running through the door (inside to out) are used. That sounds pretty ugly though. Perhaps contact a manufacturer of door closers such as Briton. It might be the case that @crank39 will be able to give you definitive advice. Oh, and...

Agreed, it looks like someone didn't mist coat correctly. I am, by trade a decorator. I groan when asked to deal with such jobs. It took the supposed decorator a couple of hours to paint the ceiling, it will take me more time than that to soak the paint and remove it. In your case, you can...

Do you mean an overhead door closer (fitted inside the property)?

Did you read the previous replies? Distortion of the carcass seems the most likely. Try inserting wedges under the base first. Then try swapping the cup part of the hinge with one from another door (as suggested). You mentioned tightening the screws. One of the screws moves the hinge side of...

Over the years, I have purchased sets of long security Torx bits from Amazon. On average about £7. To be honest, I normally only use them to remove security screws from plastic cases for power tools. If you want quality ones, look at the likes of Wera...

As above, replace it. Looking at the printed circuit board, the discolouration would suggest that something has overheated.

From the photos, it kinda looks like you have plasterboard over a moisture resistant backing (maybe). I would expect that there is a timber stud running along the wall. I have no idea why the screws are at an angle. I suspect that the problems are the result of the screws being buried to too...

120mm screws? That is freakishly long. It sounds like someone has driven the screws too far into the plasterboard. Plasterboard screws normally have a bugle profile and are designed to sit just under the plasterboard skin.

Fair enough. I did think it odd that someone would have left it like that. Path of lesser resistance- let the bottom hinge move slightly further out (read: into the bathroom). That will change the axis on which it turns and (hopefully) lift it clear of the floor. Assuming that it was...

Every jigsaw I have used had a support (guide) to prevent the blade bending backwards as you cut forwards.

When you take the door off, I would recommend sealing the top, bottom and side with clear varnish or something similar. The chipboard facing should not have been visible.