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Thanks! It's great to be able to tap into so much practical experience. I was just about to pick up the P5 boards (which is not much fun in my coupe.) I will see what sanders I can hire. Ther area is small so lots of edges. Brandons do an edge sander, and a 100mm belt sander. Not sure which...

Thanks - so it's replacement I guess and some fiddly work under the bottom stairs. I have to say that all the 1960s t&g floorboards in the house were permanently cupped, whatever the season. Upstairs floors are still that way (and can stay carpeted!)

Can anyone with hands-on experience tell me if sanding will effectively flatten a pine floor where the boards are cupped? I have never used an industrial sander, so don't know how effective they are. I want to lay carpet tiles or laminate onto the boards, but not raise the floor level. The...

Thanks - you are quick as well as Agile. I understand that mains-in has to match hot and cold water out. That would explain why the regulations require a 230 litre cistern. But in that case, why don't they also require a greater cold store in a combination unit? If I had low mains pressure/flow...

How can combination cylinders get away with just 20 or 40 litres as supply to hot water in the cylinder, and yet cold/hot cisterns in the roof space have to be 230 litres and more?? So if I have a combination cylinder, I get away with 20 litres. But if I put a separate tank just a foot above...

I'm grateful to get this feedback from people who know what they are talking about. You probably don't realise how helpful it is. Thanks.

Thanks james. We should make sure the system is flushed as best it can be - valves will be new to it - as even the cylinder thermostat will be. It is a 1970s system that has remained without much control. (Though I have replaced the rads, so all but two are new.)

Thanks Chris - bit quicker than my click throughs! Takes you straight to the pdf page. Not being pipe-and-pressure learned, I can't figure when combined vent and feed is better.... It would be easier to leave the connections as they are, with feed coming down to the HW return at cylinder...

Thanks JamesHayes, though no reason why you would be reading this by the time you get back from the pub. Boiler is a Potterton Profile 80E. Just looked at their pdf, and it shows combined vent and feed on the open-vented fully-pumped plan. At present the vent and feed are separate, with the feed...

Very agreed about website. There must be a simpler route, but try http://www.grundfos.com/web/homeUK.nsf/Webopslag/DMAR-4GLLZH Then Click 'Documentation and Downloads' (NOT just the Downlaods link at the end) Then click on 'webcaps' to open the catalogue. The click 'Literature'...

Grundfos call this the UPP 15-50 dual head and have a pdf on their website - 1222.pdf Just seemed an alternative to motorised valves, plus the fact it comes with a wiring centre which I might understand.

As I understood it, the Grundfos Twin has a 28mm inlet at the bottom and a 22mm at the top - basically just an open pipe passing between the two pumps. Literature states: 'The Pump Plan base casting has a 3/4" tapping which effectively is connected to the inlet port. It may be used for a drain...

Aaaargh. Please elaborate Harrogategas, before I just decide to move house.

We're wanting to go fully-pumped while doing other work in the bathroom. I'd be VERY REASSURED if you people who know could tell me whether the arrangement in the diagram will work, using a Grundfos twin pump ('Pump Plan'). We have a standard old-fashioned vented system with gravity HW (28mm)...

Thanks twgas, you may be right! The point is to get rid of the cistern and header tank in the attic because we can't reach them - as long as replacing them can be done without too much expense. The vented thermal storage arrangement was just an idea - I'd be happy to have an alternative...

I have read some of the past discussions and affrays around the issue of thermal storage, but I hope I can find some further advice. If the answer is in threads elsewhere, I'd be grateful for a pointer. I have to get rid of the header tank in our loft – as cost-effectively as possible. The...

Just to sum up, the lighting turned out to be a less immediate concern. I took my LT7 to the house on Sunday and began by testing sockets on the ring main, and a radial spur that is taken directly from the fuse box - I can't call it a CU. Live to Neutral loop impedance was around .4 ohms, but...

Thanks John. Seems at least that the problem should not be caused by any intolerance of the LE bulbs, and may be something mechanical rather than electrical. It's easy enough for me to try changing one of the holders, and I should be able to give that a go next Sunday.

Thanks for these suggestions. I will make a fuller inspection the next time I visit. The bulbs are standard Philips LE bayonets. My daughter initially blamed the bulb-replacing skills of her partner, but repeated attempts to get the LEs to work in all the holders failed. Some worked, some never...

Softus, would higher resistance in the circuit explain why LEs, specifically, might not work? I have to say I am hoping I don't have to read up how the electronics in an LE bulb operate!