Search results

From memory yes they recommended a 3a fuse but usually stated not necessary if on a 5a or 6a circuit

I did think that too, but i guess it will all tighten up more when the plaster boards sandwiched between the socket front and the bracket.. On there site there is results from their push and pull tests on single and double board..

Just cut holes / slots as many as needbe behind the light, once put back you wont see them , if theres a joist simply chip out the plasterboard and slot cable below in the 15mm gap dont drill and weaken joist unneccessary. If the existing cables going that way do the first slot near the end...

The fan instructions likely stare have double pole isolation, not to sure what current regs say regarding following them nowadays

£1.50 at tlc £2.50 at cef so not too bad if they work @SUNRAY I did check posts first, but not the video, I see them in cef today for the first time

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://boxstrap.co.uk/&ved=2ahUKEwj199_U_taUAxUkX0EAHQRkMYIQFnoECBAQAQ&usg=AOvVaw12TTQ3lIsnIO0nY-WmIfYN

It's likely E27 lampholder, the insert looks way to big for a E14

....

Normally a new install you would have permanent Live only, you can feed it from an existing switched live but then the sensor would only operate with the switch left on Some fittings can have a switched wire added for manual overide but unlikely needed

You may find when you cut it open the original brass threaded insert is just pushed inside, they sometimes tend to just push in if screws forced, if you want a 3.5 thread buy a dry linjng box and cut the brass insert out of that

for £2.70 you can get 100 delivered on ebay you dont need brass get BZP

Round here most electrical wholesalers have a recycling bin and often theres a few of them batteries from alarm panels in there, as they dont get collected often and basically in there way, they often let you take them, i recently took about 20 and the local scrappy gives about 30p each. Some...

Bit concerned about the transparent wires you mention you got wrong twice?, was there 1 or 2 to each lampholder, these obviously need to be connected right,

Did the old one buzz when activated, I always assumed the Ac ones buzz and the Dc ones dont

This was done by a pub manager

Firm i work for has removed thousands of T8 and T5 tube fittings and replaced with led fittings in retail stores, all still with existing mcbs often original since the 1980s and I don't recall any issues. I have only ever witnessed inrush tripping mcbs with older halogen lamp transformers and...

A common issue is the flex breaking where it enters the casing, do a continuity check from the plug pins to the unit, it only needs 1 of the cores breaking to stop it working

There not cheap but look at wisebox, you would need 1 in the shed 1 in the house, 1 external bell push and 1 standard bell set up in the house. Cant quarantee it will work but maybe an option. Though to be fair you can get the receiver bits etc and transmitter bits and maybe build your own cheaper

B and Q used to sell clones of them breakers under a different brand, i thought the notch thing was for the green 45a rather than the orange 40a @JohnW2 Older versions were push button types using the fat base, then they changed to the toggle type like you have and stayed with the fat base i...

The dummy starter is only used if your old fitting is old enough to have a normal starter. If you look at the drawing above on a old style starter fitting Live and Neutral are at opposite ends of the tube, the dummy starter simply brings one end connection to the other end connection. L and N...