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Short version is that I have an old cast iron gutter, and I am considering ‘lining’ it with uPVC guttering. Looking for a bit of a sounding board here, appreciate any comments. I could of course get someone out to replace it, but it would cost thousands and no guarantee of a long term...

Hi all, As per the pic below, I moved this radiator a few years ago from the position where the pipes come through the wall, to nearer the door, so I could put an old piano here. I just used a couple of 90 deg compression fittings and ran the pipes behind the piano, but I am renovating the room...

So, as the title suggests. I am wondering if there is any rule of thumb of sized room before the big drum sanders you can hire become more of a hindrance than a help. When I have used these before, even in bigger rooms you have to start a good bit into the room because the handle and you are...

While investigating dampness issue I found a hole under the shallow footings (200 year old house). Tried pushing a drain pole down to see if it went all the way into the house and therefore a possible cause of the dampness, and found that it came through in the meter cupboard near the mains...

I am wondering if anyone has any views/knowledge on ideal relative humidity in the subfloor void. I have just replaced joists in a 200 year old house which were resting on the ground and rotted through, with shallower treated timber joists with a shorter span to allow for a gap between the...

Hi, Couple of questions relating to insulation and power cables, grateful for any advice. I have pulled down the old plaster in a room and I am insulating internally, but at the section in the picture there are a large number of power cables running together from the meter/consumer unit...

I have just built a new suspended timber subfloor, 3m length 95x45mm joists at 450mm centres. I am about to put 18mm plywood on top, perpendicular to the joists. The short edges have been cut so they meet on a joist, but although I have a fitted a couple of noggins across each joist they are not...

Hi, Rebuilding a suspended timber ground floor (200 year old house). Previous joists were about 170mm depth but were resting on soil so were completely rotted. I am planning on replacing with 95mm depth (by 45mm) C24 treated joists at 400mm centres. The room width is only 3m and the allowed...

I am going to be putting a solid wooden floor down over battens and when I was browsing some videos I came across this one from Junckers - It is quite old but it looks like it is a manufacturers video, but I was surprised to see the finished floor put straight over battens, and even more...

Hi, I need to build a floating subfloor to sit on a not quite level solid structural base. I have never done this before and I would greatly appreciate if someone who has could have a look over and let me know if it seems like it would be sold it enough, or offer any advice if not. My...

Hi all, Pic below. Much of the skirting in my house is like this. There is a flat board stuck to the wall and this sits on top, in most cases its pinned to the board below. I would like to buy some to replace the top section in one room, but I cannot find anything similar online. Doesn't have...

Hi, Would anyone be able to advise me what these patches are on Rhubarb leaves and if there is a way to treat it? Bought the plant about 2 years ago in a local garden centre, and the discolouration on the leaves became apparent shortly after planting. The leaves eventually shrivelled away, and...

Hi, Tried to replace a badly tarnished brass door handle (interior porch door with mortice lock), but the spindle on the old handle is 7.6mm, and the new handle has a spindle which on my calipers measures as 7.8mm. From what I can figure out from reading online, the modern standard is 8mm, so...

Hoping for some advice/opinions on the stone staircase in the picture. Coming towards the end of decorating this hallway, and the last thing to do is decide what to do with the stairs. It was previously covered with the same (I suspect thirty year old) wall to wall carpet that was also upstairs...

Hi, Recently sprayed upstairs trim/doors etc in my house with Wagner W950 HVLP, using Leyland fast drying satin, straight onto previous white paint. It was thoroughly keyed and cleaned, but while it worked well and gave a great finish in the bedrooms, the paint on the doors and trim in the...

Hi, Context is that I am spraying the wood doors, skirting and other trim in a hallway with leyland water based satin. Its an old house and there is a lot of wood detail, hence the spray to speed things up and get a good finish. There will be a lot of spray getting on the cornice and ceiling...

Hi, I am looking for a specific moulding to finish T&G Engineered wood floor, that I am sure I have seen somewhere before but don't know what it would be called. I've tried searching for end profile nose or edge profile etc, but no luck. The best way to describe what I am after is a T&G stair...

To explain... I am in the process of putting lining paper up and have already rubbed down all of the woodwork. Its a big room and a lot of wood (shutters and panels in bay area and I am going to use a Wagner HVLP sprayer that I have recently bought. I am thinking of spraying the ceiling and...

Hi, My question relates to an open fire, installed long ago, probably before there were any building regulations to speak of. House is around 200 years old, but most of the 'original' features are Victorian, from about 1885 when it appears to have undergone some serious renovation. From the...

Ok, so I know that wood floors, and to a slightly lesser extent, engineered wood floors need to have an expansion gap. I also understand that this is because wood contracts and expands depending on temp/humidity and this is particularly evident across the grain. The expansion gap is sometimes...