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A contractor fixed some fence for me, it needs redoing because the boards aren't overlapped enough. He says he will nail through both boards , despite the boards splitting last time he did that. Is there any reason to nail through both boards or should the thin edge underneath be left free to move?

This allegedly reclaimed railway sleeper retaining wall got really wet because a downpipe was missing the drain for some time. i’ve fixed that, and I’m trying to dry it out and scrape out all the rot. Its pretty f*cked up, but I don’t really want to replace it because its still fairly solid...

I have an evolution track saw and I want to cut some sandstone pavers to size, will this do the job if I get a diamond blade? Any tips welcome . Also whats the best way to loosen/remove a single slab, can I use the track saw to cut along the mortar or should I use a drill and chisel or something?

Halfway through installing this patio, the stone pavers are set in mortar and go right up to the house. There is a decent fall away from the house. They're about 80mm below the DPC. Is that enough to prevent the wall getting damp?

My garden is a mess, there are concrete pavers set in sand that have sagged down and shifted, and astroturf which I hate. I’d like to have some beds and shrubs along the sides maybe, and a proper stone patio. Not sure what layout would work , or what to do the bit in the middle. The garden is on...

3m span upvc patio doors, cavity wall built 2015, there are 3 (maybe 4?) what I think are weep holes or gaps in the mortar at least. There is one brick which is randomly sticking out of the wall too with a bit of a hole next to it, not sure if its intentional. Does it look like weep holes are...

I just had a look around the side of my house that faces into my neighbours garden, as there was some dodgy looking mortar on the corner of the wall that I could see from my garden. I’m not really sure what I’m looking at , but the top right part of this wall looks a bit washed out, and there is...

I have a thin strip of LVT that wasn’t stuck properly, and another small area 10cm x 15cm. I don’t really want to spend £25 on a tub of flooring glue. These areas won’t be walked on. Is the glue in the pic ok? I also have PVA, superglue and PU wood adhesive.

I need to level this bit of chipboard sub floor by the wall to lay engineered flooring. Its about 1.5m by 0.3m in the centre. The deepest bit is 15mm too low, the rest is mostly alot less but more than 3mm. Its glued and screwed in place so I don’t want to take it up really. Its not in a high...

So I have a small section of boarded loft (1m x 5m) in the eaves of a converted attic, there is only about 10cm of insulation under the board and the bedroom below gets cold. I just put insulation 20cm total over the board which would be a pain to remove. Now I’m wondering if that could cause...

This sink has a metal section from the plughole into the plastic u bend, which has totally corroded away and leaked. Can it be replace or do I need a new sink? If its fixable how do I do that? What sealant should I use? Thanks

I've been trying to get my 22m chipboard floor (on joists) flat in two rooms and a hallway of the 1st floor, so I can lay a floating click engineered floor. There is one high spot left in the hallway , which is partially over a steel I-beam which i think is why board is bent out of shape. I...

So I’m fitting 14mm engineered click flooring, floating on 3mm underlay. i want to put a matwell by the front door. Looking out toward the front door there is a bathroom door on the left , hinge side nearest the front door (the door is off in this pic) . I was looking at 40mm wide oak L sections...

I want to put some trim along the top of tuis stringer, but this part has 3 sections and it would look better and be easier if I reduced it to two sections. Is it safe to trim the part above the green tape off the top of the stringer? It would be up to 8mm at most.

I put yellow grit on my wall and a layer of bonding on the lower half to level it (it curved) . I PVA’d the wall next day 2:1, twice then did a couple of coats of multifinish. The section over the bonding bubbled alot after the 2nd coat, and I had to wait ages to get rid of the bubbles at all...

So I’m reskimming this wall, I rolled yellow grit on it first and then levelled it up with some bonding (wall was curved) . Before I skim with multifinish tomorrow, should I PVA the bonding or shall I roll some more yellow grit on it?

So I have these click engineered boards that are 2200mm x 180mm, and 14mm thick. I’m laying them on a chipboard subfloor on joists on the 1st floor. The chipboard is sound and mostly flat. The company i bought the boards from recommended 3mm rubber crumb underlay with a silver vapour barrier...

I need to skim this wall after replacing the corner bead. Its already skimmed and painted with matt emulsion which seems sound. I’ve sugar soaped and rinsed the wall. What else should I do before skimming with multifinish? Do I need to key it and PVA or something like that

I have a walk in shower with this drain, which is not sealed at all along the back edge and the left end. There is a void visible, which water is potentially going into. The drain flexes downwards if I press it on the left side. The shower is on the ground floor, and I haven’t found any damp in...

my fence is on top of a sleeper retaining wall and the sleepers aren’t even heights. The gravel boards havent been fitted right and they’ve gradually got crushed and popped out from under the fence, which is distorting the fence in places. What will happen if I remove them? Not sure if theyre...