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I tend to use a 5.5 drill bit, red wall plug (not a fancy one, just bog standard), and a no 10 screw. I find a 10 screw in a red plug with thermalite holds far better. I'd not recommend that in anything other than thermalite. As above post, a slight angle also helps, it prevents the screws...

I've had good results with 200 watt Ansell Mira flood lights replacing 400watt SONs. I'd say a little brighter, and the throw of light is very good.

The cables wrapped around each other are new. They’re ABC cables, aerial bunched conductors. They are designed for overhead spans and are well insulated. Your drop to the house is a straight concentric, which joins to the old single tails with a crimp which has been covered in compound. This...

If it’s a 4 pin lamp, that would indicate that the “ballast” is either electronic or that it’s magnetic with a starter somewhere hidden away. 2 pin lamps have the starter within the lamp body. Electronic ballasts are quite well known to cause lamps to glow dimly, or cause lamps to age quickly...

The isolator clearly states “property of Scottish power”. If there’s an isolator installed by supplier or DNO, that’s the demarc point.

Changes from blue sheathed to grey sheathed. Not possible to see what colour the tail actually is.

Many suppliers and DNOs only switch the live on isolators.

The RCBO tripping in 0.4 seconds prevents earthed metalwork from rising in potential for too long while the fault clears. The flex trapped under an oven for example.

We’ve concentrated on MCBs here, but the original post is about RCBOs, which will both disconnect within 40ms for a L to E fault, no matter what the actual current rating. For MCBs, it’s EFLI dependent.

While this is true, once you accept the price, you can collect duct, hockey stick and meter box from the DNO stores to install prior to the actual job.

NOPE. Very unlikely in normal instances, but with your earth loop, it wouldn’t trip quickly enough. That’s the difference between fault current and overload current. The magnetic side of the RCBO would take over. A 32amp B type RCBO needs 160amp to operate “instantly”. Your earth loop is...

And if that flex had finally melted through, causing a direct short, do you think a 16amp RCBO would trip quicker than a 32amp?

No idea what I’m looking for, other than no obvious supply cable…

There is a smart meter there. While many think the reporting features of the smart meter is a myth, it WILL inform the local DNO of its outage, and depending on their algorithms, will flag a possible issue. They may completely ignore this (Storm Arwen keeping them busy), or they may send an...

Unlikely the roller doors would require RCD protection. The three phase sockets, if 32amp or less should, unless a “documented risk assessment” is available. A socket that is installed for an intended purpose such as a fixed machine may also have RCD protection omitted.

It may be possible to strip the cable open and just place a resin joint around it. Is a core is badly damaged, joint just that. Do t go “cutting” the cable. Open it up.

ISAT Testing? Don’t ya love it?

No mention of what the existing joint box is for? No confirmation of earthing, bonding or RCD protection. Insurance is a problem, but also consider that the electricity at work regulations are statute.

To you maybe, but then you annoy me. I got on with my piers and colleagues, just a few twits grate on me. Plugtop warriors are one. As if it actually makes any difference. Tomorrow I’ll go to work and laugh at you lot pedantic wallies.

And yet I’m highly successful.