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sounds like the tap spindle is worn or loose. undo the tap and check. when the threaded spindle of a screw down tap wears it usually makes noises when opened/closed.

if you have a combi, turn off the servicing valve to the boiler inlet and the main house stopcock (for the cold) if it's a mixer tap! run the tap for a few seconds until flow stops, to make sure you HAVE isolated it before removing the tap!

if there is no gate valve you can "bung" the cold feed (hot) and cold distributing pipe using pipe bungs (available from normal stores like B&Q now). if you do drain the tank though and get an airlock or air in the pipes/leave the taps running for a few minutes and they will splutter and get...

is the tap a pillar tap or a mixer tap? is your system direct (mains pressure all round the house) or gravity fed in the bathroom (eg/ is there a cold water tank in the loft)? do you have a combi boiler/sealed hot water/central heating system?

totally agree. the bypass circuit, a short piece of pipe usually, is fitted just after the pump and after the last return (which should be from the hot water cylinder). now most, if not all are of the automatic type so they only open when trv's or motorised valves close down (open by a...

def. call out a reg. gas installer/engineer. it may be something like a blockage in the pilot jet or gas governor faulty and not letting enougb gas through. may even be a blocage in the pipe to the burner not allowing enough gas through... don't touch it yourself though it is dangerous...

yep ok mate just wanted to make sure. will leave it in terminal box end and do what you said about the terminal strip in the stat end. great forum, great help, thanks to you all.

just drilled 2 new holes for the new baseplate for the room stat. shame the old ones didn't match up.. anyway, nearly there but before i completely change the wires and put the power back on, is it ok for me to leave the old neutral wire in the terminal box wired as before with the old stat?

it's not that hard to do, but better be careful as it's electrics after all.

a new programmer costs from £35-to £70 ish. good ones usually around £50-60 ish.

maybe you'r programmer is faulty. I have a drayton tempus 7 programmer and the digital display is fading/not very clear now. it still works at the moment though.

so if the cyl stat is satisfied then it is correct for the valve to close. so it's not faulty then? sorry mate i'm just trying to help, sorry if i'm confusing u!

ok cheers, will do that now. one last question to ask, does it matter if the other end of the old neutral wire is left connected up in the terminal box? will it affect anything?

sorry people, i got it wrong. ive gotta apologise. i have 3 terminals in my old stat (why did i say 4)... i have common, call and neutral. i guess not many systems use the sat terminal for a room stat, only for the hot water cylinder stat (on a y plan) as mentioned. maybe with one...

oh right. maybe i should have got a new stat with a SAT terminal too then. I don't have a 2 port valve that has a spring return. i have a 3 port valve. from as far as i know there is not a HEATING OFF terminal required in the programmer or from the valve wiring. not 100% sure now though...

cheers boss. will get one. this is a great forum. glad i found it.

cheers for helping. yeah the new one has a battery (i guess for the digital display). 2 wires for the switch inside are C and CALL. should it need more than this then? so the other wires are just needed to be blanked off. what at both ends or just inside the new stat? where can i get a...

Alright here's my problem, if it is one? Hope someone here can help me out. I have bought a new thermostat for my wall, a modern, nice digital one. My old one looks crappy and was chipped (the plastic corner) so I thought i'd better sort it out. Anyway, am i being a dunce or not: (you...