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I've no idea! It seems to flash as it detects movement, rather a regular 'on/off, on/off' flash. The whole sensor head (golf ball looking bit) glows. It's like it's trying to turn on the light, but can't. It was working fine.

Hi, thanks for reply. It's made by 'Lucande' This one:

Hi, I fitted a new PIR activated light above our front door about six weeks ago, and it was working fine up until a few days ago. Now, whenever it detects movement the integrated sensor flashes red, there is a faint 'click' as if the light has been activated, and then the sensor continues to...

No, just the 3-core/earth that's already being used, and the 2-core/earth that comes from the outside.

Hi, I have just fitted an outside light, and I am hoping to swap the existing 1-gang/2-way switch in our hallway for a 2-gang switch. Would it be possible to have one of the switches kept as a 2-way for the lights in the hallway, and the second switch for the outside light as a 1-way? For...

That looks great, and very similar to how ours is supposed to look when done. Cheers for posting the pic

Thanks Opps.

Wasn't very clear? I thought clarity was established in my second post regarding the '100mm' bar advice. I only asked for advice on resin, but I'm getting an unsolicited lesson in dimensional semantics! I was just trying to join in.

No, depth is 140mm as in the OED definition: 'Depth, noun. Dimension or distance as measured downwards from the top' The thickness is 90mm. I tried to make the original post simple and brief enough to understand for a simple and brief reply. Please don't make it confusing for everyone because...

At 90mm thick (see above), I'd have 10mm sticking out the front. Somewhere for the kids to hang their Christmas stockings though I suppose!

I have two 90mm thick, 140mm deep oak mantles to fit to either side of chimney breast. Stainless 10mm threaded bars have already been resined into the brickwork and project about 60mm (the nuts are irrelevant and were only there to clear the threads if they got plastered too!). The plan is to...

Here you go...(before I started the laminate)

Just had a new fire and hearth fitted and the installers have left a gap beneath the hearth for me to fit the cut laminate flooring edges under. Do I need to seal the edges of the flooring, or fill the gap between the boards and hearth? It's the dining room, so I'm thinking of spilled drinks...

I'm hoping to make a start on laying laminate floorboards in our dining room whilst I'm off work next week. The floor has been self-levelled and is mostly good and level apart from a few areas towards the centre where there are couple of small dips. No dip is larger than the size of a paint tin...

Cheers for this. Coincidentally, The joists are currently levelled and sitting on those very same shims. I had no idea they would be good for a permanent solution. Thanks.

I'm currently replacing the floor and suspended joists in our dining room. Our old dining room timber floor was 'bouncy' and uneven and had a small 'step' where it transitioned to a concrete solid floor in our old kitchen. Following a new kitchen extension, the two old rooms have been knocked...

As all the politicians say, " I mis-spoke". I meant closure plate, not register plate.

I offered to loosen them off, but they said they'd do it - I even left a small flathead by the window for them if needed. No radiators fitted either, to make life easier.

I think the boards are going to have come off. The walls are too wavy and the corners too curved and lumpy to straighten out. The 'bellcast' bottoms would be a nightmare too.

No intention of paying them. Been awake all night fretting over this and how much more time and money it's going to cost to put right and start again.