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I keep an eye on my elderly mothers ch system, it is identical to yours - we experienced the same symptoms, replacing the pump resolved the problem. Back in the spring I purchased a very low cost 'trident' pump from a fleabay store, installed it and all was well again.

Apologies, only just noticed your question - looks like you identified the removal method anyway (I had long forgotten). Good luck with the replacement, my dishwasher is still going strong since the repair.

Both.

System was installed in the late 90's and has been very reliable, excepting one motorised valve replacement and one pump replacement. Recently the boiler has been cutting out and the reset switch used to restore function. Behaviour started in early November and has become more frequent over...

Replacing the 'safety pressure switch' resolved the issue. Part 474 on the diagram.

...had several attempts to repair the Candy dishwasher heating fault - still no joy. Trawled many threads in the forum for dishwasher heating fault info, in order to gain an understanding of where the heating system commonly fails. I've carried out the following: Measured resistance of the...

'taint me that's footing the bill DR - at my place the rainwater goods are fashioned from 24 karat gold, no less. ;) ...these look like a possible solution, will need to confirm 15mm will provide enough stand-off...

There must be 50 odd brackets around the roof line, meaning replacement with those metal brackets would be costly for materials and labour! Something like the door stop, but made from plastic would be ideal.

The fascia board running around a relatives detached bungalow is 'tilted' / 'angled', as opposed to the commonly seen 'vertical'. The guttering is standard 112mm plastic half round, supported by compatible top fixed plastic brackets. Under heavy rain conditions the gutter tips down and outwards...

Apologies for dragging up an old thread - did you rectify your dishwasher fault? Ask as I'm experiencing the E8 code and lack of heated water on an identical model. So far have removed the water heating element for inspection but this tested ok for resistance with a multimeter.

Thanks for the advice. Makes sense to ventilate both top and bottom. I'll get onto removing the soffit at the weekend!

Yes it's a new build extension. I got the soffit and fascia on before fixing external vertical battens (at 600 centres), meaning the top of each batten butts up to the underside of the soffit board - if I continue as is, the top edge of the 25mm ventilation gap will be up against the soffit...

Thanks for the replies. So to clarify, I should first remove the soffits, then fix the cement boards, render, fix insect mesh to the top and bottom of the ventilation void, then fix soffits in place? This will allow the ventilation gap to 'breathe' into the enclosed soffit void (which makes...

On a diy basis I'm building a small ground floor single skin timber frame kitchen extension. Flat roof, soffit and facia are in place and have fixed external sheathing of osb, breather membrane and 25x50 vertical battens ready to accept cement board (finish is to be render). Plan is to fix mesh...

Been reading loft conversion advice this evening, noticed a statement repeated on many websites: "For cut roofs, your loft has potential to be converted provided the available head height measured from the bottom of the ridge of timber to the top of the ceiling joist is minimum 2.2 - 2.4...

My early 60's bungalow has a gable ended traditional cut roof, the span from plate to plate is 7.5m and height from underside of ridge board to plate level measures 2.18m - this works out to be approx 30 degree pitch. Does this profile have potential for conversion to good usable living space...

Thanks. I did see your recommendations to use scrim tape for this purpose on a previous post. Sounds like a great idea, my worry is that the next evening I'd need to 'feather in' onto the previous nights skim, whereas if stop bead had used I'd need to 'butt up' to the cured skim . My feathering...

...pva'd and re-skimmed all previous work, much better standard now - getting the hang of it (slowly). I have an 18sqm boarded ceiling to skim. Worked out I'm ok doing up to 5sqm, so plan is to divide the ceiling into 4 equal sections, using 3mm stop beads as dividers. Because I do this work in...

...this might help other diy'ers... Re-skimmed the small ceiling and one wall this afternoon, as there was too much making good to do - decided it won't take any longer to pva and re-skim. Worked out a few things I've been doing wrong... 1) Excessive trowelling when applying first and...

Yes absolutely more practice the better. After the second wet trowel step I stood back and couldn't see these hollows (or are they known in the trade as holes?), maybe because the plaster was dark from the water that's gone over it. Once it's fully dried out pink they become visible.