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Stud walls so a huge mess to do that.

Thank you I am going to follow that path. There’s definitely no permanent live at the ceiling rose - there’s none in the entire house. It’s within my competence and the cabinet is rated for the zone I will be installing in. Thank you to all

Thank you. In my house (new build) there is only the live from the switch along with the neutral and earth, no permanent live

Thank you but that means the cabinet will only be on when the light is on which is a problem with the shaver socket charging toothbrushes etc

I’ve a new bathroom cabinet - led type with shaver socket If I connect this into the lighting circuit in the bathroom I won’t be able to properly use the shaver socket on the cabinet (and the light wouldn’t be on without the bathroom light on). I do have an extractor fan which has a permanent...

Hi I have a nearly new oak dining table from a famous brand oak furniture supplier The top has a few deep scratches in it and scuffs on the edge. It’s an oil finish on the top. I’m not looking for a perfect finish as it will be a family table but do wish to improve on what I have. My immediate...

The socket is below the worktop and inside a unit - spare appliance socket. My original plan was exactly that, spur off the socket and chase the cable down the wall. But, the cable will never be seen and so really the only difference is that there will be a surface cable with plug, rather than a...

Sorry poor terminology from me, I agree. It is an RCD but I’ve attached a photo anyway unfortunately not, the problem is the socket is at worktop height and I want the outdoor socket much lower

Thank you. It’s all on a breaker. The socket is behind an appliance so the cable inside will never be seen running down the wall and I can conduit it. Seems to save a lot of work

I have bought an MK outdoor socket I am wiring it to a 13amp socket Ideally I would chase the wall and run a cable to it But that’s a lot of work. Is there any reason I couldn’t run a (suitable) flex to the socket and fix a 13amp plug thus avoiding the need to chase the wall please? Thank you

So I suppose the question then is aside from the terminology point Ian has made, was my initial post/plan correct please?

Got it. That makes sense. It also raises the other point about power to the stat as if they are switching wires only will they power the stat?

I need to do exactly this and I’m not sure how there is a misunderstanding. I included a link to a thread where someone had done this install.

I presume I am to take A&B out of the wiring centre? - and wire to heat link as advised

Thank you Ian. This is very helpful. As above though I presume I remove the stat A&B from the wiring centre to wire into the heat link. Will the display be powered from this though? Thank you

I think that’s pretty much what I thought in my first post but it was said this was unnecessary. Thank you for your help

Thank you. I still have a spare core/cable (grey one unissued behind the stat and inside the wiring centre). Please let me know what I’d need to do as I need to power them from that cable. Thank you

Very helpful thank you. So I’m clear I take out the two stat wires on the wiring centre and wire to the 2&3 on the heat link? Wire the nest display in and job done. I was concerned my existing wiring a&b didn’t power the stat. I presume the nest will be powered from those? Many thanks

HL = heat link The thread I have been referring to is here - https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/nest-thermostat-gen-3-dual-zone-install.601653/ is where the link was indicated as necessary. Your suggestion sounds far more straightforward. But, do the valves not need to be connected to the heat...

I have a Logic ESP1 35 Combi Boiler and 2 Honeywell T3 thermostats (T3H110A). I wish to install 3rd gen nest and have purchased two. I have read a lot on these forums of other installs. From what I can see I need: 1. To run a L&N from the wiring centre to the HL 2. Put a jumper cable from L to 2...