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Thanks everyone for the advice. i just about managed to stretch it, literally a few mm shorter, and it wouldn't have been possible. But got there in the end.

Yes that could be an option as a last resort thanks

i was hoping someone would say that, i don't have a lot of choice so will give it a go, thanks

ha, i'm desperate but not that desperate

Hi, i'm renovating my mums place, and I've just got round to fitting a carpet in one of the rooms. I bought the carpet about 6 months ago as an new offcut which was labelled and sold to me as 3.9m long, it turns out after unrolling it that it is about 40mm too short on a 3.45m long room. This is...

That all sounds like very good advice, thanks for your help

Hi Hi, I've stripped some walls of wallpaper and want to emulsion. The paint underneath is peeling in lots of places. I was going to use peelstop on the peeling paint edges after sanding prior to filling, but I was going to use zinnser gardz to seal in any wallpaper paste. Will the gardz do the...

hi my mum needs a new back door. she's looking for an external hardwood pattern 10 ( the ones that are fully glazed with just a frame around the outside) door. the trouble is that the size required is 1981x726 and the nearest i can get is 1981x762 so it will need 18mm cut off each side of the...

hi, thanks for the reply yes you're right i'm in sussex and although the house was only built in 1958 its built like an old sussex style house. the sides of the existing windows have the mortar flush with the edges of the tiles, but the edges of the tiles visible, and look almost like the...

oh i see. trouble is the rest of the house which is about 60 years old have them mortered in at the edges so i want to match in with the rest of the house.

hi i'm vertical tiling the walls of my extension with redland plain tiles. i'm a bit unsure regarding pointing the edges of the tiles around my windows. i can't find any info online at all so i'm hoping one of you may know. is it best to lay a tile put some mortar on top of it and fit the next...

Thanks, yes they look perfect but they're very expensive I was hoping to find something for about half that price. I do have a friend who may be able to make some up for me so I'll get him to give me a price. I'm doing the roof in EPDM and the balustrade in cedar so I'm hoping it will last hence...

Hi John I'm fixing through the ply/OSB roof into a wooden beam that runs around the edge. The old balustrade was fixed using bolt down metposts as well. I know what you mean about strength conerns. But my fixing options are limited. They were the galvanised ones and have completely rusted...

Hi I've got to replace a balustrade around a flat roof at my house. I want to use bolt down post supports (like metposts) but I want stainless steel as I'm close to the sea. I can only find galvanised or painted/galvanised. Does anyone know of a manufacturer who makes stainless ones or anyone...

hi tony thanks for the advice. very useful. i've contacted building control and asked them what they think. thanks again roland

Hi I've got a wooden balustrade (made of stair spindles and newel posts) that goes around the flat roof above my conservatory. Its been there for years and has recently blown down in the wind. Rather than replace it with another wooden one I want to put a glass and stainless steel up there...

i've started to take out the course of bricks for the new lintel above the old lintel but i've noticed that the brickework either side of the flue is a solid 9" wall but only a single skin in front of the flue. how would i go about supporting the inner skin? if i was to put a 9" wide lintel...

hi i'm after a bit of advice, i'm going to get a hole in the wall gas fire fitted (by a gas safe engineer) but wanted to do a lot of the preparation myself to keep the costs down. the house was built in 1956. i've started to open it up and i think i've found the sides of the builders opening...

Thanks guys. I understand what you mean about the slip coupling now, I won't need that as this just goes to an old mid level cistern currently and I'm just shortening it and putting a bend on for a new close coupled WC, not connecting between the 2 steel pipes. As far as the earth bonding...

when you say if there is no movement use a slip coupling, what do you mean? i know what a slip coupling for copper is, but how would a slip coupling connect if you haven't got any thread to connect to just a bit of sawn steel pipe?