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Not familiar with these things, but is that a fairly usual type of valve (ie will I be able to find a replacement to fit in the same space)?

I cleaned them up, used hardener, glued and clamped the spilts, cut a piece of wood to fit the gap and packed out the difference with two-part filler (including filling the groove for the old compression seal, for a bit more strength). Seems OK so far…

Got an unbranded shower mixer control which is slowly but constantly dripping - are there generic cartridges which might fit something like this, or does it need replacing? If replace, am I likely to find a straight replacement? I can’t see any grub screws or similar holding the fascia plate on...

It’s a conservation area, so slightly more involved, and I think another custom-made window with associated bits is going to be £1k or more. Zero chance of anyone else paying for it!

I need to repair the attached window frame - it’s softwood, and the inner section where the window stay pin mounts has split from being constantly soaked with condensation. There’s some wood lost, although the rest of the frame is good. Would it be better to try to splice in new wood (and...

It’s had some troublesome tenants who have just left. There was no visible rot with the bath panels in place.

Have had a leak from a shower screen which a tenant had very helpfully partially-siliconed to the bath and hinge after throwing the seal away - it has rotted the bottom corner of the frame, the bottom of the stud upright and the cover piece (pictures attached), and the wood is still very wet...

Conductor size is the cross section of the actual copper bit - when I said 10mm I meant the diameter/width of the three cores plus insulation.

I am the OP, and it is good. Sealed nicely with the larger glands:

Used a Hylec IP68 mini-connector from Screwfix - not cheap at £11, but did the job (and the glands fit pretty well on the flat cable).

I’d looked, but couldn’t see anything twin-entry for larger cables at the usual places. Best solution would be to chop the cable inside, new junction box and re-cable the rest of the run, but I need a quicker solution for now.

Assume the panel was knocked some time ago, it’s come lose from some cable clips and has abraded against a panel edge with wind and weather.

Cable is partially “outside”, but not directly exposed to sunlight when it is (it’s normally behind a metal cladding panel) . Lots of damp, condensation etc though.

I need to cut out a damaged section of 10mm twin & earth cable and reconnect it - whilst the cable isn’t actually exposed, it is in a vertical position where it’s likely to get damp and drips on it. Are there any IP68-style connectors designed for this, or will I need to silicone a round cable...

Main earth comes in with the cable in a conduit (other earth is onto a brass tap which is fitted to a poly pipe…). I’ve turned the supply off until I can get it sorted.

Yes, there’s a meter (spinning round much more quickly with this issue) - think the problem might be in the old fuse box, I can hear arcing when one of the outlet cables is moved. Ground sparking seems to stop when just the fuse box is turned off but supply remains on.

Have a steel-framed agricultural-style building - it has a single phase distribution board inside which supplies a few outside lights and inside 13 amp sockets. One of the old-style wire fuses blew, which appears to supply three double sockets - I replaced the wire and the sockets worked...

Not just me then! Thanks all for the advice, it seemed to be behaving so I’ve siliconed everything back together.

This is testing my patience - not wanting to fix what isn’t broken, I’ve replaced the diaphragm washer on the Siamp fill valve (cleaned the existing one, but it was still sometimes slow to fill). Didn’t touch or change anything else, but now the cistern will sometimes continue to fill until it...

If I had one… Ordered a new one from Amazon, was getting limescaled and sticky anyway.