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Revisiting this before I call someone in - the hot water temp from the taps isn’t consistent, sometimes it’s hot, sometimes it’s just warm, and it doesn’t really matter how much the tap is turned on. Is it possible that something like a heat exchanger could be partially blocked with the...

Yes, I’ll yet to measure flow later. What’s odd is that the shower that runs off the combi seems fine - not sure if the back pressure from the shower head is doing something.

Have a Greenstar 24i Junior combi (one without a water temp dial, and a supposed fixed 55 degree output) in a flat - recently had a blocked cold supply to the property, which, after resolving, has led to much-improved flow. Before, the flow was poor (from the sound of it, low enough to...

Problem solved (ten days later) - there was an old stop tap buried underneath the bathroom floor, which wasn’t fully open - plumber got it loose and the water’s back. Quite a bit of metallic-looking dark sediment came out of the taps, and the cistern fill hose was blocked with it.

My thoughts (but something, somewhere, moved because a little bit more water started coming out of the taps).

This flat is 1st floor and above - as far as I’m aware, the feed from the mains also supplies the ground floor commercial premises and two separate flats above a separate commercial property next door (shared flat entrance door and stairs, where the pipes are briefly visible, developed at the...

I don’t think that’s been tried (I had suggested it), because they weren’t clear which 22mm blue pipe belonged to which property in the void before they disappear behind the wall.

Because changing to it made no difference at all - the only thing that did was using the compressor down the cold feed to the boiler (I think). I’m really hoping for a way to check for blockages in accessible sections before pulling up floors, but I’m not sure if that’s feasible (eg from boiler...

No, the lever valve replaced an ancient stopcock (one of three) immediately after the split from the single supply line for the mains, it was the first thing the plumbers did. The other two flats still have the old stopcocks with no issues.

Don’t follow - the old stopcock directly after the split from the mains was removed and replaced with a new lever valve, there is definitely flow and pressure immediately downstream of that. Why would that be a problem to test (rather than going to all the effort of pulling up floors)?

Looking at the rest of the plumbing, I don’t think there’ll be a pressure valve. The new lever valve is directly after the mains feed splits, so I’d expect it to be OK given the other flats are.

Not sure exactly why the water was turned off, but it was something to do with the mains being replaced in the adjacent street - nothing to do with this particular property or block. There is definitely good pressure and flow to the building from the mains, as the neighbours have no problems...

Water co recently turned off the local supply to carry out some work - unfortunately the supply did not come back on fully, meaning just a trickle/drip from the cold taps - all neighbours appear fine. The suggestion is that sediment or silt has got into the pipes and blocked a tap/valve...

It’s a rental, and it hasn’t been fixed in time for the next tenancy because I’ve been messed around by both joiner and uPVC people, whilst having other stuff going on. The other replaceable windows are largely in good condition (but given low uPVC cost and high fixed fitting charges, they might...

The usual red tap does feel very like it’s about to shear off. To clarify - if I turn off the red valve between cold cistern tank and hot cylinder, will the full contents of the hot cylinder drain when a hot tap is left open (both tanks are at attic level)?

Thanks, as I thought

I need to change an upstairs bathroom tap which doesn’t have any isolation valves at the moment. The cold supply is direct from the mains, for which there is an electric cut-off valve - if I can turn off the fill valve from the cold water feed tank to vented tank, will the lack of flow mean that...

Mainly because it will likely be sold afterwards, so I’d like the certificate, and fitting costs are prohibitive for a single window.

Thanks, that makes sense. I was considering new wood into the uprights and filling, but I think that’s going to be too involved given the state of it.

Have a softwood window which has rotted away at the back of the sill, and on the lower inch or so of two uprights - I would like to get it patched up so it will look presentable for a year or so until all the house windows are replaced. How would you approach this - chisel it flat and screw a...