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If I keep it then it would be helpful to move it down the wall a little so it would be hidden by any unit etc I use for my av amplifier etc. This obviously causes a problem as the electric cable is attached to the wall which gives minimal movement potential.

Ok so this is what I have at the moment: The masking tape square is where my proposed wall mounted tv will go, over to the left is the double socket that feeds the fused switch. I need the new power socket to be somewhere in the square, preferrably towards the lower center as the tv...

I didn't think you can have more than one socket in a spur. Is this because it is fused on the switch? I was hoping to get rid of the fire socket altogether to leave a nice clean wall but then i've got no idea how I would get a run of electric cable from the fused switch to the new socket.

I would like to wall mount my tv in my downstairs living room to an external wall however I need to get a power socket on the wall somewhere behind where I am proposing the TV to go. The house is a new build and the developers put a spur socket (off a double ring main socket) to be used for...

Excellent, that's what I thought! Thanks for all your help! Andy

how should I handle this then? Should i put a blanking box in containing the connection so that people know there is a junction there?

I have set the multi meter on the continuity setting, turned off all the breakers on the CU and set the CU to the off position. The multi-meter has sounded an audible continious sound when hooked to both live wires. Can I connect the two live wires now or should I test something else? Andy

the specs of the meter says it has a continuity test on it. There is a picture of an arrow head with a vertical line through the head and a sound wave next to it. This is the only setting that makes the multi meter sound a high pitched beep when the testing prongs are touched together...

Ok, I have run some tests. The results are as follows. I have tested the live wire of each of the two cables with a multi meter after turning on each breaker and then turning off again. Both of the the live wires show 230ish volts when a single 32amp breaker is the only breaker in the on...

I can do those tests pretty easily in a bit. If the two twin and earth cables are part of the downstairs ring and the two lives are not connected together what problems does this cause? Thanks

We dissmantled our kitchen a few days ago and found some dodgy connection block which the cooker was wired into. There appears to be two twin and earth cables in parrallel coming down the wall in the plaster which connect to this block. A double socket was also connected to this block which...

I've bled the pump now and only water came out. Something which may or may not be related is that as I was pressing against the pump to turn the bleed valve in the middle of the pump the bottom of the pump that joins onto the CH pump started to leak. As far as I can tell it's the fixing that...

also if the pump needed bleeding would that not mean that none of the radiators would be warming up? Ther upstairs radiators heat up within about 3 minutes.

The drain off I fitted is sufficient to drain the entire system as I have used it twice to do thi snow trying to solve my problem. The water drained off the very first time was quite clear until it got to the very end. The second time I drained the system it was quite alot blacker with a...

As our bathroom radiator was starting to show rust on the bottom edge I decided to to replace it with a nice towel radiator. Due to the system drain valve being in a really bad place to get access to I drained the system by just loosening the connector pipe to a radiator in the kitchen...

That's a good idea to remove the grout! From tile to the bottom of the existing rad valves is 125mm. I'm planning on ordering a couple of in line manual valves to replca the standard valves.

Is my pipe centre calculation correct then? I assume pipe centre means the distance between the centre of each copper pipe coming up from the floor? Should I be persuading the 2.5mm difference by just applying pressure or maybe with a rubber mallet? Thanks