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I installed a painted glass splashback in my kitchen about 6 months ago using silicon as recommended by the supplier. I noticed recently it had slipped down the wall by about an inch so I removed it immediately. On removal I realised that only small patches of the silicon had actually been...

Thanks for your replies. I made the original joint in PTFE, then tried to remake it bulking it out with further PTFE in order to get the joint tight and vertical - which obviously failed in the end. Am I likely to be able to achieve this with the sealing string or am I just going to have to...

I replaced my vented hot water cylinder last year because the coil was leaking into it. The elbow connector that joined onto the thread of the prefitted coil was vertical when fully tightened on the old cylinder, but on the new cylinder it's a few degrees past the vertical (nearer the 11...

If you've got a vented hot water tank and there's no sign of a leak, escape from PRV etc, then check out this thread '0.5 bar/per hour pressure drop on system boiler'. The pressure in my WB 30cdi boiler kept dropping to about 0.3-0.4 bar and it turned out to be a leak in the hot water...

Yep, it's the tail piece I'm fitting, basic TRV's from Wickes. Possibly I was trying too hard as they do get tighter, but I think I forced it past where it should stop and then it just keeps on going. The fact there are reducers fitted means there's only about 10mm max of thread that is in...

I'm fitting a chunky tubular radiator that has a 15mm reducer fitted for the valves to screw into. When I screwed the valves in I realised there was nothing for the valves to butt up to and they would keep going in until the valve body started to foul the edge of the radiator. On other...

I'm now under way converting my CH to a two pipe set up and I'm hoping somebody can help me with the pipe layout. My plan was to branch the flow and return pipes off as soon as practical after leaving the boiler, one to feed one upstairs radiator plus the down stairs and one to feed the rest...

I thought I'd finish this thread off to say that I've replaced the hot water cylinder and now the pressure is nice and steady on the boiler, so problem solved. Thanks for all the help

Can any one recommend a good tool to remove lots of 1" copper pipe? I'm repiping my 1960's CH and there's loads of the original 1940's 1" stuff that I just want to hack out from under the floorboards. I'm thinking of something like bolt cutters or the like. At the section I can see at the...

Turned the hot water off again and the pressure popped back up to 0.4 bar which I guess is the cold water tank forcing water back through the coil. Any more comments welcome if you think a point has been missed, but otherwise, thanks for all your help. Once a new tank's in I'll post the...

I just turned the hot water on with the pressure at about 0.4 bar and it dropped to zero pretty much instantly. That seems fairly conclusive, new tank it is then. Thanks again for your time.

Thanks for your reply Stem, always good to hear of other's experiences and you make an interesting point about volume of water. Once I've resolved the pressure drop problem I mention in my other post, then cleaned out the radiators, I'll be in a better position to decide what to do. My...

Thanks for your reply. Yep, the pressure consistently drops to about 0.3-0.4 bar with nothing isolated and the boiler turned off. It's slightly less than 0.5, but I can't be more accurate than that. The system has been turned off the last few days for all but a few hours a day and the...

Yep, pipe outside is dry. Looks like you can't easily isolate the DHW as the flow doesn't have an isolation valve - I guess having one could be a bit of a risk. Anyone know if it's worth doing this test by turning off the rising main and the DHW return, or is that a bad idea (with the boiler...

I've now topped up the system to 2 bar and closed the CH flow and return valves. Over about 90 mins it's dropped to 1.0 bar so I guess that means a leaking coil, given that I can see none of the DHW pipes are leaking and the boiler itself is only two years old. I suppose the next sensible...

It is a vented cylinder so I'm very tempted by that test, although I'll do it tomorrow now. Do you isolate the flow and return valves with the slotted hex bolts/screws under the 90 degree joint where the 22mm pipes terminate into the chassis? Assuming that's how you do it, do you fully...

The screw through the pipe was on the first floor landing. I've just double checked the repair and there's a nice dry end feed joint on there. Whatever is leaking must be on the groundfloor for us not to have noticed it, although no obvious damp smells yet. The screw in the pipe incident...

bengasman, with the boiler off, pressure sits at about 0.3-0.4 bar. Getting it up to 1.0 bar is about a 10 second turn on the filling loop. 10 seconds on my kitchen tap gives about 2 pints. I guess the filling loop has more pressure against it, so it's less than 2 pints, but still a good...

Thanks for your reply. You're right, it's only an educated guess that it's a one pipe system downstairs, although I'm fairly confident of this as the flow pipe from upstairs to downstairs is exposed and there's no corresponding return pipe. Our boiler is a system boiler, not a combi, does...

OK, I can see I've generated some healthy debate on here. Rad's already had TRV's although I couldn't swear if they're the correct one's for a one pipe system, a room stat was installed at the same time as the boiler and there is an integral seven day programmer. An optional diverter valve...