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I don't know which is the right or wrong way but I think it's better to put worktops in first. Firstly you have a level surface (hopefully) to start from, you can also cover any gaps between tops and wall, which will help getting a neat silicon line which will look better and be more...

The main requirment for water is to cool down and lubricate the blade. Try doing a couple dry, then with water, there is a big difference in the way they cut. Don't overfill with water and keep the guard down, the water problem can be kept to a minimium.

A great book that tells you everthing you can possibly want to know. Living & Working in France, by Survival books 12.95 + p&p Phone 01937 843523

If any of you think you are having a bad day how about this? After 6 months of making excuses and generally fuffing about, I have today started laying.....................................wait for it........................250 sq metres of laminate flooring. Three guesses who's idea it was...

Sorry if this sounds basic, you said it was set to hammer, I take it you did mean drill & hammer? Most sds+ drills have 3 settings drill, drill & hammer and then hammer only. It is worth spending and get a good sds bit, the cheap ones can be useless.

Yes I am sure, a good 5mm still in the way.

I have 165 hinges on one of my kitchen cabinets, I just tried it and the door does not clear the side. Had a look at my bedroom furniture, the wardrobes have built in draw units, they are smaller in width to allow to pass the door. So would say packing pieces is the way to go.

Most pros will have to make a few test pieces to get what they want. The more you do, the faster you will get at setting up. There is always a lot of fiddling & fine tuning with routers.

Following on from Masona's Gripfill Idea, I did it that way. I gave the blockwork a coat of pva and varnished the underside of the board, I don't know if it was needed but seemed to make sense. A bonus is that if the window is running out, thick beads of gripfill, push down until level...

Doors, worktops & sink, can change the whole look, if money is really tight, just the doors. B&Q off the shelf range are pretty good value, some of the ranges are on 1/2 price sale, you can pick up average size door for £12-15.

It is not always a case of saving money. The U.S. has a massive range of tools and lots of stuff you just don't see in this country. I bought a Porter Cable "D" handled router 7years ago, I got it through a specialist importer cost me £360, cost over there $120. Was it worth the money? no...

My experiences of builders merchants are the complete opposite, the moment a female walks in everything stops as they all rush to serve her, the speed they move also seems to be determined by the tightness of her clothing.

Sorry Kendor :oops:

Kendor, that's what I thought, look at the original question.

Right lets see if I've got this right, we should stay in the EU if they all speak english, follow our system of justice and adopt the Queen. If this fails, we become monks in Tibet for a few years, then come out and spread the word. Or we really do become a melting pot, we all leave our...

Hello Jason, I know about the personal use issues, as it does not meet EU regs. The saw I have in mind is the Delta unisaw, it's a solid built cast iron construction accurate machine, with a great range of extras available, including a sliding carriage and of course you can use a daddo. I...

Breezer, thanks for a great reply. The main item I want is a particular saw bench, which is not available in this country, or anything similar. I have done a small amount of research, after reading a couple of articles by people who have done it and it can work out to be financially viable...

I'm considering a personal import of some woodworking machines from the USA. They are in the 3-5 hp range and run on 220 volts, what would be required to get them to work here? I intend to use a sparks to do the wiring to the machines, who am I looking for to do the modifications to the...