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fan cable, red to loop, yellow to switched live ( id as live), blue to neutral( id as neutral black ), make sure these are the same in the fan and that you usa a fan isolator.

two reds go to loop. one black is neutral on black is switched live (make sure u id this as live ie red tape). switch red to COM, black to L1 ( again id this as live) fan cable, red to loop, yellow to switched live ( id as live), blue to neutral, make sure these are the same in the fan and...

what kind of UFH system is it? i presume each room has its own dedicated zone with a room stat contorlling its dedicated actuators. Many of these are wired into a control unit which are 12v DC which will be fine

MK do a range of wireless switches, easy to install too but expensive.

I disagree, IMO plastic ducting provides against mechanical damage in that location, anything capable of damaging that at that depth would also be capable of damaging an SWA cable. Question- would you turn the job down?

what does 522.8.10 say, i dont have regs handy

plastic covered with danger tape at 640mm deep, im happy ith that.

through a duct. not the best cable choice i know

SORRY forgot to mention the cables are NOT SWA they are FP200.

HRcable wont be required

the electrician shouldn't have touched anything before sorting out the earth bond to the water, get in a different electrician. Bonding is vital it could save your life.

Just been to look at a job, spotlights(IP68) which are installed in slabs in back garden keep tripping RCD. Removed and found they are just connected using connector blocks and tape(didn't have a camera handy sorry). The junction boxes im after are the type which has some sort of silcone inside...

you can overdide some security lights by switching the isolating switch off on off on

call your electricity supplier, explain the situation

tell them your meteres turning the wrong way they'll come out soon enough then lol :lol:

on a job a last week in the middle of nowhere, tested Ze on a PME before commencing work, reading was 0.42ohms. Phoned scottish power to report. They came out a few days later(after promising a response within 4 hours) and informed the customer that there was nothing wrong. What do i do now...

personally i would run seperate supplys to each appliance so that if one developes a fault you could still use the other one

ok. when your testing your Ze you test between p&e right. Inside the cut-out there is a neutral block and also an earth block. These two blocks are connected together by use of a copper bar. I've checked google for images but can't seem to find any. This is what i mean by testing to neutral...

no i am not saying that testing between p&n is an acceptable earth but what i am saying is testing between p&n for earth after scottish power have confirmed that it is a pme confirms that there is pme, i aint sayin that i would go into the cut out myself but the evidence is there that there is...

yes i would. If you took some time to read the first post then read what i posted why wouldn't it be fine and dandy as you like to put it. You're here to advise, not to be a smart ass