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Might be doing some updating on a detached 1950's bed house. I think it is faily typical of the era. Cavity walls, wooden casement windows, pretty good quality construction in its day, a one off farmhouse. The kitchen floor is yellowish tiles like quarry tiles very flat no movement...

Thanks very much guys. I will get a photo of the bath when I am there tommorrow. By the way its not a laminate floor its plywood to go under the tiles. Its not finally fitted or screwed down yet!

Right I have a better photo now. I have grouped everything as I think it belongs. Still have no idea about the big clips with the red bit! Thanks for any more ideas anyone might have.

Why has someone taken the top bit out? Seems an odd thing to do if you arent removing the breasts out of the rooms. Could be a roof/maintenance thing I guess. If you are sure then yes, you can remove the stack below no problems. The repairs to the floor though might be quite involved...

The top leg is bent because its a shower bath I think. Yes, bad photography again one of the legs is viewed end on, and is separated from its friends. I thought the clips int he bag were for the panel. There are 7 of them I think. I will get a better clearer photo today but there are...

The top leg is off the photo, leaning against the wall, its bad photo taking mainly! Yes, the little bendy clips, the panel! Of course! Thanks!

Not really a Plumbing problem but I cant see a more suitable forum! I have a Vitra Bath and the leg set has no instructions with it! I have sussed some of it out but there are several things I dont understand, having never done this before 1) All the screws that seem to be intended...

I would have thought you are talking about two days work for a tradesman plus a labourer for two coats floated out smooth. Material cost will be small, I would have though a tonne of sand plus several bags of concrete would leave you with sand left over.

For plasterboard I find better to do as you suggested, feed the wire thru, and carefully cut them out after plastering otherwise the plasterers will not get it smooth round the boxes. Just dont let an electrician do the boxes or else they will be all cock-eyed.

Plastering sand should conform to BS somat which I believe relates to clay contamination which can weaken render layers.

If I thought any part of my house would be structurally weakened by cutting a 25mm box into it I would move out immediately!

Cut the boxes with an angle grinder you should find it possible to do less damage and hopefully not penetrate your blocks. Very very dusty though. How deep before you hit fresh air?

Found this comment on a search I think you have said it on another forum as well (not sure it was you :) ) how do I do this please?

I dont think you should be able to scratch it with you nail even after 24 hours? Could it be that the bricky watered down the mortar mix after it started to go off early in the heat?

Do you mean the brickwork is stepped with a larger hole in the back layer? If so this was to accomodate the sashboxes. You can use timber as you said or brick them up.

Celotex between the timber, then use insulated plasterboards. You'll be warm as toast. Air is a good insulator but air which moves about can conduct heat away fast.

OK Biff dont give me a hard time. My own house I have gone to great lengths and restoration expense to avoid taking out the original Oak frames windows but this is a rental house which will be occupied by students plastic is the only realistic and pratical solution, honest. Cost and maintenance...

I am converting a house removing the old sashes. This house is getting the Upvc treatment as it is a rental house. I know that there is a step in the brickwork to accomodate the sash boxes and while I am having much of hte house replastered from brick I am wanting to ge the neatest result on...

Thanks all. I will look into those models and links you mentioned. Yes I the front door is a very strong wooden door with chunky decorative grilles would wouldn't be able to get through. I dont think you are allowed to lock it so you couldnt open it from the inside keyless even if unoccupied...

It must be openable without a key. I was thinking of somekind of thumbturn deadbolt or other to make it so you couldnt just reach in through broken window and unlock very quickly. I dont exactly know to be honest. This applys to High risk HMO's (Houses of multiple occupancy) but will also apply...