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Done lots of single-skin blockwork before but want to build my own small extension cavity walls. Should I build the outer or inner leaf first, what centres should the ties go and what's the best way of avoiding 'snots' on the ties? Thanks for any advice.

see www.pavingexpert.com Brilliant site!

Thanks for the reply egg. I haven't started or got any materials yet. Been searching for info (google etc). Seems I need to use "cullamix" sprayed on with one of those hand-cranked flinger thingies? Are there any other materials than cullamix, and how would I do it with the "sand and...

I have an area about 3sq.m Tyrolean to patch up on the front of my house where I've taken an old porch down. My question is, should I scratch the undercoat before applying Tyrolean or leave it smooth? Any other tips greatly appreciated. Thank you

Doh!! Can't see how I missed that from google searching. Thanks for the quick answer.

I'd like to paint a concrete block garden wall black but I can't find any black masonry paint listed anywhere. What should I use? I don't see the point in applying a full render treatment before painting so I'm thinking of filling in the little holes in the blocks with a wettish mix 4 sand...

See this for an excellent overview of your problem (if you really have a problem) http://www.askjeff.co.uk/content.php?id=8

But the other way round, they're "d" tacks (once you hold them against the workpiece). Because it's so complicated trying to work out whether to use n, u, c or d tacks, and for whichever ones you need to knock in 2,000 before you get it right, I think the easiest thing is to use No More...

That depends whether you're fastening to the underside of a horizontal surface. In that case u tacks are better because n tacks don't have points facing upwards.

Sorry, it's a bit late and I keep realising I've missed things out. To use the chicken wire/mesh, I'd fasten it down in the 'trench' in a few places with screws/plugs, masonry nails or similar. Wrap part of the mesh round the screws/nails to hold it. Get the whole lot below the top level...

PVA to strengthen the mix is a bit of guesswork. For a 10 litre bucket I'd guess maybe a cupful of PVA but others might have a better idea.

Normally you want screed to be at least a couple of inches thick. There are a couple of ways to stop cracking if thinner. You can get bags of short fibres to mix into the screed from some builder's merchants. If you have a problem getting hold of these you can use a metal mesh, say chicken...

If you take enough care about the screeding you don't need self-levelling.

Half-inch to an inch is too much for self-levelling compound unless you use multi layers and/or some aggregate in it (for which you have to follow manufacturer's instructions and it's a pretty skilled job). Best to lay a dryish mortar screed say 4:1 sand:cement and level off as you describe...

Be careful. Refurb can sometimes cost more than starting from scratch. If you've got £70k to spend and 180m that works out at £388/m. Not impossible if you do a lot of the work yourself, but difficult. If I were you I'd be getting as much good advice as possible at this stage to develop...

Admin don't seem to be doing the uploading of my pic. Perhaps they're too busy? Can you tell me how to post it?? It's an openoffice.org draw document, but I can convert it to word or .pdf if that's any easier.

If you're converting into a habitable building you'll need building regs approval (and probably planning permission?) which means you'll have to put drawings into Building Control. The drawings will show general arrangement but you can raise queries with the inspector as you go along.

Peep weeps are those little plastic channels to let water out of the cavity, fitted into the perpendicular mortar joints. The radon membrane is where the dpm under the slab is folded over the internal leaf, downwards across the cavity and out through the external leaf, to stop radon gas leaking...

I'm building an extension at the back of the house. I'd like to have the ffl almost at ground level, to allow elderly mum to get into the back garden through french doors without having to negotiate steps. Anyone see any problems with the arrangement in the picture, or suggest...

I had a floor to level, similar size and problem to yours, and was horrified at how much levelling compound cost at local builders merchants; £25-£30 a bag and I needed 4 bags. I shopped around and found 25k bags at B n Q at a bit over £5 each. I ordered it online and it came next day! Tried...