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oops...double post

Hey! Guess what, I have a similar fault on my similar system... Ultracom 18Hxi Smart Wiring Centre Climapro RF When installed (last Nov), the system initally would not provide DHW...even though the 'stat was turned up and the Climapro was set to DHW "on". Glowworm engineer turned up...

If your Transit has a 2.5 Di engine (either with or without a Turbo) then it has NO glowpugs... The earlier indirect injection York diesels did have, though.

To make a descision as to whether the head is scrap or not requires you (or your mechanic) stripping down the head... If it were me, I'd strip the head completely..than take the bare head with components to a machine shop and ask them to: a) crack test the head b) crack test the cam shaft...

Why don't you PM me your contact details...one of my work colleagues is looking for a similar job (replace a boiler and he already has the (s/h) replacement)...he lives in Stanmore and would be very keen on a cheaper job... Be warned, though, he is extremely pedantic and will not suffer idots...

Right...post install update: Plumber has completed the job...took a bit longer than both he estimated and I expected, mainly due to the only place for the new flue exit being through and old concrete window lintel (window long since removed)... This meant his hole cutter not being up to the...

Blimey! £40 an hour is CHEAP for a skilled tradesman! However, I'd question the 51 hours required to change a boiler :?

In that case, probably best to contact a mechanic....

An air leak could be anywhere in the fuel feed system (pumps, pipes, filters, etc...You just have to look very carefully and think what may have been touched/joined/altered... Just because it was running OK in the past doesn't mean the pump cannot be faulty now...However, the air leak is more...

Sounds like you either have an air leak or the injection pump is mistimed or faulty

Joe, you're missing the point...Mehran is correct in that you price your time/work to take into account the fact that you can't always be working as you have to factor in time to travel, do the paperwork, training, whatever...as well as those slack times when there is just less work around...

all modern small direct injection or common rail diesels are self bleeding... There *may* be a priming bulb or lever on the fuel filter...but this is just for filling the filter and fuel lines to avoid flattening the battery by cranking until the air is excluded... Unless you have a leak...

It is quite common for the earth strap to break...That will give a poor earth as the only remaining earth route for the engine (and components on it, such as the starter) will be through any metal/metal interfaces...Given that these corrode and that there is a resistance differential between...

it'll be self-bleeding

because electrical resistance will increase if there is moisture in a poor connection...in good weather it will a)be dry and b) the metals expand and make joints that bit tighter

not that bright yourself, mucker... if you deduct all those things from an hourly rate, and then claim them back as tax relief, you've earnt yourself a bigger profit than you are stating...

There is a difference between net and gross profit, though... Most of the things you list are overheads so affect the net profit figure... However, virtually everyone who works in a mobile trade or as a self-employed person/small business has these overheads... A lot are tax-deductable...

Check the earthing strap form the engine to chassis and make sure that there is a good earth with zero resistance between the earthing point and the battery negative. It could be the starter, but it may also be a poor ignition switch contact or a poor positive battery feed as well.

To remove an immobilser that is resident in the ECU, you would need to have the ECU reprogrammed... I'd start by contacting some of the companies that advertise chipping...

It's a big roof, alright...but it could be done properly for around £500 as a DIY project...Shame it's so late in the year where good (dry and light) days are not guaranteed... Personally, I'd strip it back to the beams...then use either sheets of 18mm 13lam ply or planks of 4x1" treated...