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I have a 15 year old Miele Premier 520 which just starting making an unusual noise 2 mins before the end of the high speed spin cycle. Now, when stationary with no clothes in it, when I manually rotate the drum it makes a squeaking sound (both directions). I tried lifting the drum and it's not...

I just realised I never posted the upshot of this -- I got an electrician in who did put in an earth between the breaker box and the master supply. The 37v problem was finally traced to a miswire in the double pole switching units in for the lights -- though not sure exactly why this caused it...

gulp! I guess I should get it checked, though I remembered I had a full structural survey including an NICEIC report back in 96 before I bought the house; I looked it up and has "TN-S" ticked. But re-reading it now, I notice it suggest a full re-check after the recommended rewire, so maybe...

Just two heavy duty wires from breaker box to the meter as depicted 2 posts above. (wire on the left of these two just goes to bell transformer) You can see two green/yellow going upwards from the breaker box; one goes to the gas pipe, and one up into the garage ceiling.

thanks

Here's the circuit breaker: Is that what you want? The two righthand large cables at the bottom go to the meter (see earlier picture)

thanks for this. I'll stop worrying :-) PS Here's a closeup of the two clamps:

... hmm... actually it may be TNCS, but unlabelled (no safety sticker on the gas bond either). See: though I was expecting the earth to neutral connection to be done at fusebox, not the other side of the meter.

Thanks for this. No sticker on the main circuit breaker box, so presumably not TNCS; Of the green/yellow wires leaving the breaker box, one goes to the gas pipe, the other goes up to the garage ceiling, and then I know not where! In any case, back to the original topic of the post, it sounds...

I checked: all earths are connected together within the switch boxes. I assume that the earth from the distribution box is connected to actual earth! (Though this is a 1997 installation so, as I understand, there was then no need for an actual electrode into the ground; I can see a bond to the...

Yes I am; I spent a long time wondering which ones to get and whether they would be bright enough. (I didn't want spend as much as the new ones costing around £20 each). I originally had 8x60w incandescent. Now I have 12x4w led and they are at least as bright. Slightly pinker in tinge. The ones...

Thanks for this; will check tomorrow once it's light. It was an electrician whom I contracted via the builder who was doing some internal renovations at the time, and having just bought the house and having had a full structural survey recommending a rewire, that's what I did. I confess I...

They were originally controlled by 2-way switches; but in late 90s I fitted a dimmer switch, so rewired one of the switches so both-ways on and put the dimmer switch on the other one. When I fitted the leds, I had to remove the dimmer switch of course and put back a regular switch, but all the...

My house was professionally rewired in 1997. I recently replaced 8 individual kitchen R60 spots (2 circuits) with 4 sets of 3xGU10 spots. These came with halogen and all worked as expected. I recently replaced these with LED spots, and in one circuit I notice that the leds are still (very dimly)...